Start first by having Autozone or other parts store scan for diagnostic codes and go from there.
The first issue sounds like the traditional throttle body/plate issue. If it hasn't been cleaned routinely, clean the throat and throttle plate. Usually you can clean enough dirt to restore it. Best way to do it is to remove the air cleaner hose from the throttle body, open the throttle by hand (engine off) cleaning the plate edges and the throat of the body with a rag sprayed with carb cleaner. Do NOT spray the cleaner into the throttle body or you can flood the engine. The next thing to clean if the issue persists is the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve/motor. It will be located on the side of the throttle body and functions to allow more air to flow around the throttle plate when idling and the AC compressor kicks in thus increasing the idle only while the AC is running. You might be able to diagnose this control by turning the AC off and see if the engine will stay running at idle while in drive or reverse. If the engine stays running then the combo of cleaning the throttle body, throttle plate and IAC should solve your issue unless the IAC is defective.
The reason this occurs is the (put simply) fumes from the engine crankcase are brought to the intake of the throttle body where they are sucked past the throttle plate where the oily residue builds up, this closes off the little bit of air necessary for the engine to run at idle, causing it to get more fuel than air (rich mixture) and the engine stalls. This is common on most fuel injected engines and should be a routine maintenance item every 2 to 3 years or 24K - 36k miles (my recommendation).
Another item that can cause issues is the mass air flow sensor which tells the engine how much air the engine is taking in and supplies incorrect readings due to dust buildup on it and can vary with the air filter condition. It is not as likely to be the issue in your case.
As for your second issue, if the transmission is down shifting normally as you climb a grade, I don't know how to advise you.
if the CEL dont glow , driving, dont go to autozone, they cant help you, try a real mechanic, there can be 50 reasons for this problem, guessing never works, cars are complex. and past 06/07 years even vastly more. fly by wire, and CAN bus COMs to the nTH degree. Why not take it to and ASE mech, and ask him to diagnosis such a complex car. ?????
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A stuck open EGR main?
but usually WOT correct that,(big clue)
if not EGR and not a simple lack of a tune up , ever do those?
is a lack of fuel. low fuel pressure, never replaced the fuel filter,
ever?
it can be over 20 things, but here is the old list
1: bad engine, sure some will fail only hot. lost compression
2: bad spark, (tune up?) DTCS from scan tool like P030x?
3: bad fueling...
rare, clogged CAT.
each of the above has a simple test. we find out which of the 3 are bad, in that order, and work that to the logical conclusion.
Lets pretend the problem is lost fuel, we check fuel pressure with a real gauge (no silly squirt tests) and its 30psi and at spec.
so we check the MAF, and its dead. (actally weak)
we look at it and find a mouse nest there, blocking the hot wire.
i can list 100 failures, its not any use that, only tests and following the path to truth. called, Diagnosis.
learn to use your scan tool ,is the CEL on at any time the bog happens?
SOURCE: car doesn't seem to get enough gas to engine
Have you done a tune lately on the car?
I would also suspect a fuel pump problem is you've done a tune up recently.
SOURCE: broken car
You could have a cloged fuel filter. Have that changed for a start for now. Good luck and i hope this helps.
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