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I don't think your engine is a 22R-E as the E denotes electronic fuel ejection. For 1980 it should be just a 22R. I would not suggest slapping on another carb without expecting more work than just hooking up the original vacuum lines. Some lines you could cap off but others would need the vacuum and rerouting. There is plenty of info in the following blog on removing smog devices and extra vacuum lines here: http://www.yotatech.com/f114/de-smogging-early-22r-205845/
There are also plenty of pictures and diagrams for your engine. Making a trip to your local junkyard might find you a 22R with a carb still attached but it's slim these days. I know this question is from January but if it's too late to help you than maybe it can help some one else.
Hi Anna:
- It could go to either as both rocker arm covers vent through to the crankcase. That means you get to route the hose whichever way works best for you.
- There should be a tube sticking out of the front of the venturi that the brake booster hose connects to.
- the PVC hose usually goes to the housing that the air filter lives in on top of th carb.
- Nice looking pic of your engine.
Please reply as a comment to this post if you want to discuss more.
Cheers.
1979 chevy C1500
the vacuum setup varies,
by (california, Federal (USA) and export models)
where are you, or if in USA the under hood sticker shows if calif.or not.
if in usa, use the FSM (buy one used) or use alldata.com
on USA cars , (not sure starting year, this one is old) the vacuum
map is on the underside of the hood. (not not painted over,etc)
When attaching vacuum lines, you need to remember only one thing. Mark each hose when you remove it from the original carb (quadrajet?) Hoses that attach to the baseplate are at full vacuum and should be returned to a similar location or to the manifold, using a "tree". Hoses that are connected to the body of the original carb only see vacuum when the throttle is opened. Those can be attached to the fitting on the right side of the front metering block. Most Holley carbs have no provision for the valve located at the front of early Q jets (bowl purge) nor do they have any electrical connections except for the choke mechanism. The most important vaccuum line is the one for your power brakes. Make sure that one is firmly connected either to the rear of the carb baseplate or the manifold. All other lines are nowhere as critical as that one is..
It sounds to me like there is still a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere, and you should also check for any dis-connected or missing vacuum lines on the intake manifold, at the carburetor, and the large vacuum hose to the brake booster unit and the vacuum valve at the brake booster unit for any vacuum leaks or broken vacuum lines/hoses, and they can be hard to find because cracks in the vacuum hoses like to hide on the under-side of the vacuum lines/hoses especially the hard plastic ones. Also the carburetor could be loose or the carburetor base gasket could be damaged, the EGR valve gasket could be damaged, or the intake manifold gasket could be damaged, and these are all the most likely places to suspect a major vacuum leak.
You can google 87 Econoline Van Vacuum lines diagram and you'll find a site that will give it to you for free. If you don't find it purchase a Haynes manual from your local auto parts store.
Hello, the best advice I can give for this is to mark your old vacuum lines off the careburator and match them with your new one. A good Chiltons or Haynes Auto Manual can help you in this endeavor as well. Being a mechanic doing upgrades to your vehicle does not always have the manual for the conversion in which you are doing so some good ole guess and tell may be the route to take. Just remember that you need vaccum to take and take out air into the careburator and this is a good start from any careburator upgrade. I have rebuilt and installed probaly 50 careburators and a manual for converting one careburator from one vehicle or motor can take longer than some just good time with your motor figuring out what needs to get done. Thank You
If the vacuum lines are deteriorated and cracked, they will make the engine run rough, uneven, and hesitant. All you have to do is take the lines off one at a time (so you don't mix them up) and change them out with new lines.
do you have a email address that i can send you the diagrams to
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