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I installed four fog lights all together ,when switch was turned on the switch got hot and the fuse holder and wire melted, what do I need to use so there is no melt down for more lights? or do I have to wire the switches seperately, I have 8 fog lights , a par of driving lights and my head lights on my 2000 k2500 I not crazy ,in the fog I see great and they can see me! They are pointed down on the road and 4 to the side of road. there was no problem per fog light just when I installed more fog lights to one switch, I'm trying not to have 8 switches on my dash
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Theory of operation. The bcm monitors the headlamp switch to know what is going on, the bcm then sends voltage to fog lamps, when activated. At the fog lamps two wire connector, the black wire is ground, the other wire is voltage comes from bcm. You can use test light to check voltage and ground with fog lamps turned on. There are codes for fog lamp, the two that I noticed, shorted to voltage or shorted to ground, these are B type codes, manufacturer specific. Check the codes.
I saw two 40 amp fuses going to bcm, those fuses are hot all the time. No specific fog lamp fuse because the voltage comes from bcm. Hope this helps a little. I can only help with testing.
This sounds like the A/C switch got really hot at one point and melted the coating off some wires close to it and they've fused together. You'll have to pull the A/C switch to find out, there's no being able to see under the dash without pulling a lot of stuff out to get to it.
Fog lamps are installed on the front bumper. The switch is located
to the left of the steering column on the dash panel. The fog lamps are
turned off by the circuit relay when the high beam driving lamps are
turned on. The circuit relay is located on the right front wheelhouse
panel near the blower motor.
Good luck, and remember rated this help.
Removal & InstallationFog Lamp Element See Figure 1 Fig. 1: Exploded view of a fog lamp assembly
Remove the lamp stone shields, the four bezel attaching screws, and the bezel.
Remove the reflector assembly from the lamp body.
Remove the bulb holder from the assembly. Remove the element from the bulb.
DO NOT handle elements with your bare hands, always handle with a
clean cloth. Oil from your hands will cause the element to fail.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Fog Lamp Switch The fog lamp switch is removed and
installed by simply prying the switch from the instrument panel and
unplugging the electrical connector.
FOGLAMP BEAM ADJUSTMENT
Position the vehicle on a level surface, facing a wall
approximately 25 feet away. Remove the lamp stone shields and loosen
the adjustment nuts.
Turn the fog lamps ON and adjust as follows:
Distance between the light beam centers should be equal to the distance between the lamp assemblies on the bumper.
Height of the light beams on the wall should be 4 inches less than the center of the lamp assemblies when mounted on the bumper.
Install all previously removed items after turning OFF the fog lamps.
If the fuse blows when the switch is off the switch is bad too. If thefuses only blows when the switch is turned on you have a short in thewiring or bulb.
So first, I would removeboth driving bulbs from their sockets and see if there is corrosion.Fix that problem if there is corrosion.
Then install a fuse without the bulbs and see if the fuse blows. If youhave a test light you can bridge the fuse panel without putting a fusein. If there is a connection you have a hot wire grounding. If there isno problem install one light, fuse or bridge the fuse holder and see if1 light works. Try each side. This way you can isolate the problem.Then visibly inspect wiring.
This means you have a short. I am assuming you are talking about the fog light fuse. Does this fuse blow whether the fog lights are off? or just when turned on?
If the fuse blows when the switch is off the switch is bad too. If the fuses only blows when the switch is turned on you have a short in the wiring or bulb.
I don't know if you have test equipment so first I would say to remove both driving bulbs from their sockets and see if there is corrosion. Fix that problem if there is corrosion.
Then install a fuse without the bulbs and see if the fuse blows. If you have a test light you can bridge the fuse panel without putting a fuse in. If there is a connection you have a hot wire grounding. If there is no problem install one light, fuse or bridge the fuse holder and see if 1 light works. Try each side. This way you can isolate the problem. Then visibly inspect wiring.
Check the relay for these lights. Might be melted or frayed wires. Also check any existing wires coming to/from the lights. These are usually run in series with something else and could be just a ground/hot wire popping the fuse.
Look under the dash near where the headlamp switch mounts and if yours is equipped you should see I think it is a blue 4 pin connector with the following wire colors OG,OG/WH,OG/GN,BK.
This is for the fog lamp relay.If yours has this connector then you will need to purchase a relay ford part number F6RZ-14N089-AA should list for about $10.
It's definitely the switch...I bought two of 'em so far...known bug. I don't use the fog lights as much anymore , but the "Airtex" oem equivalent switch from Rockauto seems to be holding up well. If you dissamble your broke switch you'll probably see evidence that it is beginning to melt and theres alot, maybe too much, grease, which may or may not have been the cause of the bad, heating contacts inside switch.
If I remember right, even though the foglights have a relay there is still full amperage going through the switch or something....don't qoute me on that last statement.
If it's a lighted switch, you should have 3 terminal connections on it. One for the "ignition on" wire (from your fuse box). One going to the fog lights to turn them on when you flip the switch and one ground for the switch light to work. If your switch doesn't light, you should only have 2 terminal connections (no ground).
Find an "ignition on" plug on your fuse panel. It is only hot when you turn your ignition to the on position (not crank position). With your keys out, it should not have any power to it. Hook your "hot" wire from fuse panel to switch, take your keys out of the ignition first to be safe. Now hook the other wire from the switch to the "hot" on your fog lights. You will have to find a pass through rubber grommet on your firewall to go through. Use a clothes hanger to help fish it through. Now ground your fog lights to a grounding screw somewhere in the engine bay. There should be a few you can use, possibly one of the bolts that hold the front shroud on. Make sure it's a metal surface and use sandpaper to scrape off paint to get a metal to metal contact. Cover area with petrolium jelly to ward off rust. If your switch is lighted, hook to ground wire on fuse panel. Test with ignition on. If it doesn't come on, check your grounds again.
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