Radiator top hose busted now there is noise in engine, sounds like water got in engine through intake or plugs got wet/ wiring. draining oil looking for water in it. If water in oil and now a noise were to I look next

If there is any water in your oil, you'll have to replace your head gasket. Sounds like the intake manifold gasket needs to be replaced, unless you just happen to have a water line to your heater core that is busted. Make sure there is plenty of water in your radiator and reservoir, then let the engine idle up to normal temperature and look back there with a flashlight and see where it's coming from.

Removing the drain plug and just letting old coolant drain out and then refilling doesn't really flush it out. It only drains what is in the radiator and it doesn't circulate and flush what is in the engine and heater core.
Take radiator cap off, then take top radiator hose off where it comnects to the radiator..only disconnect that side of the radiator hose aim end of hose downwards and leave it there. Take a wet rag and push it into the radiator where the hose was connected..you don't want to push it in so far you have trouble removing after flushing...the wet rag is just to limit the amount of water that will come out of radiator where hose is no longer attached..crank car and coolant will start to slowly come out the vend of radiator hose aimed downward...have a hose or 4 or 5gallons of water...right after you crank the car pour the water or befilling the radiator with the hose...you want to keep the water going in the radiator as to keep it fulI...replace what is coming out of radiator hose...continue to add water until what is coming out of the radiator hose is clear water.. this way the water is circulating through the entire cooling system and engine. When water is coming out clean...turn car off remove rag from radiator and reconnecupper radiator hose..the drainplug is at the bottom of the radiator on the side of radiator that is on the drivers side of the car....remove drain plug and drain water left in radiator..replace drain plug and crank vehicle and fill radiator with coolant recommended for your vehicle... Sounds more complicated than it really is..other option take to a repair shop and have them flush with machine..usually around 100 bucks at ashop..Iif you have any questions Iwill be glad to answer..

Instructions

1. Removal

Unscrew the bolt that holds the negative connection to the Impala's battery. Set this bolt aside for later use.

Remove the engine cover to access the intake manifold and manifold gasket. Disconnect the throttle body inlet duct from the engine.

Twist off the radiator cap to allow draining of the coolant to flow more smoothly. Place an empty container beneath the radiator's drain plug, and remove this plug. Allow all of the engine coolant to drain into the empty container. Replace the drain plug once you are finished.

Tag all of the electrical wiring and hoses before removing so that reconnection is precise to factory settings. Remove these parts, individually, from the intake manifold.

Loosen the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the Impala's engine block. Lift the intake manifold from the block once all bolts have been completely removed.

Use the flat-head screwdriver to pry the old intake manifold gasket from the engine block. Discard this part once you have removed it.

Clean the engine block thoroughly with the engine degreaser and linen cloth. If necessary, use a gasket scraper to remove excess buildup and grime.

2. Installation

• Coat the top and bottom of the new intake manifold gasket with a chemical sealer so that it bonds to the engine block securely. Position this new manifold gasket so that it lines up perfectly with the cylinder ports of the Impala's engine block.

Place the old intake manifold on top of the newly-installed manifold gasket until it aligns with all of the holes of the cylinder flanges and manifold gasket.

Attach all of the bolts with your hand to the manifold. Once all bolts have been positioned, use a torque wrench and apply 15 foot-pounds of pressure to the bolts to secure the manifold into place.

Reconnect all of the necessary hoses and electrical wiring to the intake. Pour the engine coolant back into the radiator.

Reattach the engine cover on top of the intake manifold and engine block. Start the Impala's engine and check for any leaks around the new intake manifold gasket.

Print

Removal & Installation

2.2L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cableIntake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connectorPositive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hoseAir intake assemblyUpper radiator hoseAccessory drive beltExhaust front pipeAlternator and bracketsCrankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connectorKnock sensor connectorHeater hosesWater bypass hoseFuel linesEvaporative Emissions (EVAP) valve connectorCanister hoseIntake manifoldEngine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartmentPower steering pump pressure switch connectorFront coverSpark plugs and wiresCamshaft Position (CMP) sensorValve coverTiming belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section.Timing belt idler pulleysTiming belt rear coverOil pressure switch connectorCamshaftsCylinder head. Remove the bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence.
   
   Negative battery cable Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose Air intake assembly Upper radiator hose Accessory drive belt Exhaust front pipe Alternator and brackets Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector Knock sensor connector Heater hoses Water bypass hose Fuel lines Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) valve connector Canister hose Intake manifold Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Power steering pump pressure switch connector Front cover Spark plugs and wires Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor Valve cover Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section. Timing belt idler pulleys Timing belt rear cover Oil pressure switch connector Camshafts Cylinder head. Remove the bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence.
   

To install:

Fig. Cylinder head torque sequence-2.2L (VIN D) engine

NOTE Use new cylinder head bolts for assembly.

1. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: Step 1: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)Step 2: Plus 90 degreesStep 3: Plus 90 degreesStep 4: Plus 90 degrees
   1. Step 1: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
   2. Step 2: Plus 90 degrees
   3. Step 3: Plus 90 degrees
   4. Step 4: Plus 90 degrees
   
   
2. Install or connect the following: CamshaftsOil pressure switch connectorTiming belt rear coverTiming belt idler pulleys. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).Timing beltValve coverCMP sensorSpark plugs and wiresFront coverPower steering pump pressure switch connectorEngine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartmentIntake manifoldCanister hoseEVAP valve connectorFuel linesWater bypass hoseHeater hosesKnock sensor connectorCKP sensor connectorAlternator and bracketsExhaust front pipeAccessory drive beltUpper radiator hoseAir intake assemblyPCV valve and hoseIAT sensor connectorNegative battery cable
   
   Camshafts Oil pressure switch connector Timing belt rear cover Timing belt idler pulleys. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Timing belt Valve cover CMP sensor Spark plugs and wires Front cover Power steering pump pressure switch connector Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Intake manifold Canister hose EVAP valve connector Fuel lines Water bypass hose Heater hoses Knock sensor connector CKP sensor connector Alternator and brackets Exhaust front pipe Accessory drive belt Upper radiator hose Air intake assembly PCV valve and hose IAT sensor connector Negative battery cable
   
3. Fill the cooling system.
4. Start the engine and check for leaks.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose Air intake assembly Upper radiator hose Accessory drive belt Exhaust front pipe Alternator and brackets Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector Knock sensor connector Heater hoses Water bypass hose Fuel lines Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) valve connector Canister hose Intake manifold Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Power steering pump pressure switch connector Front cover Spark plugs and wires Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor Valve cover Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt procedure. Timing belt idler pulleys Timing belt rear cover Oil pressure switch connector Camshafts Cylinder head. Remove the bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence.
   

To install:

Fig. Cylinder head torque sequence-2.2L (VIN D) engine


NOTE Use new cylinder head bolts for assembly.

1. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
   2. Step 2: Plus 90 degrees
   3. Step 3: Plus 90 degrees
   4. Step 4: Plus 90 degrees
   
   
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Camshafts Oil pressure switch connector Timing belt rear cover Timing belt idler pulleys. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Timing belt Valve cover CMP sensor Spark plugs and wires Front cover Power steering pump pressure switch connector Engine wiring harness connectors at left rear of the engine compartment Intake manifold Canister hose EVAP valve connector Fuel lines Water bypass hose Heater hoses Knock sensor connector CKP sensor connector Alternator and brackets Exhaust front pipe Accessory drive belt Upper radiator hose Air intake assembly PCV valve and hose IAT sensor connector Negative battery cable
   
3. Fill the cooling system.
4. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Vehicles: Any with the above symptoms

A cracked cylinder block will cause either:
(a) motor oil contamination of engine coolant
(b) coolant contamination of motor oil
(c) white exhaust smoke, due to coolant seeping into one or more cylinders.
(d) more than one of the above
(e) all of the above

Oil infiltrating into coolant is easy to see - drain some coolant out through the pepcock at the bottom of the radiator, and place it into a styrofoam coffee cup. Oil droplets floating on top of the green (or orange) coolant are easily seen. Or visualize oil by looking into the top of the radiator through the radiator cap.
Coolant infiltrating into and mixing with motor oil will permanently damage the engine (seizing it up through loss of lubrication), and must be prevented.
A leak from above the front suspension is, as physicians like to put it, "nonspecific", with the most likely cause a water pump seal or hose/hose connection.
A leak from near the fire wall will usually be a heater core hose, or hose connection.
A coolant leak on the same side of the engine as the water pump is a leaking water pump or water pump seal until proven otherwise.

To rule out everythng else, here's the 1999 Honda CR-V Troubleshooting Guide for Coolant Loss/Coolant Leaking:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Water Pump - Worn, Cracked or Leaking Water Pump, or Water Pump gasket.
2 Inspect Head Gasket - Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Radiator - Leaking Radiator Hose(s).
4 Inspect Radiator Cap - Worn or Damaged Radiator Cap.
5 Inspect Radiator Hose - Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Radiator Hose.
6 Inspect Freeze Plug - Leaking Freeze Plug(s).
7 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket - Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
8 Inspect Water Outlet - Cracked, Leaking or Damaged Water Outlet.
9 Inspect Heater Control Valve - Leaking or Faulty Heater Control Valve.
10 Inspect Radiator Drain Pepcock - Loose, Damaged, or Faulty Radiator Drain Pepcock, or Pepcock O-ring.
11 Inspect Engine (DOMESTIC ONLY) - Cracked Cylinder Block Leaking Coolant into at least one Cylinder, causing white exhaust smoke.

There is a Felpro gasket out that will solve the issue indefinitely, as long as the heads didn't warp a lot.

sounds like you might have a head or head gasket problem, combustion pressure leaking into radiator/cooling system causing pressure build up (hose swelling) the noise could also be from this failure.
get engine warm so hoses swell, turn off engine remove spark plugs leave radiator cap on and pressure from cooling system as is(hoses swollen) wait 5-10 minutes crank over engine with plugs removed and keep clear of spark plug holes, put paper in front of spark plug holes if water comes out of spark plug hole or slight wetting of paper with water head or head gasket is at fault.

Sounds like your thermostat, without letting the fluid run through the engine, that particular hose is building pressure. Also check your radiator. If you remove the hoses from the top and bottom, shouldn't be but a hose clamp on each. Take your ordinary garden hose, and stick it in the top, and make sure water is flowing out the bottom. Make sure this is done safe. Get yourself 2 gallons of premix fluid, and before you take the hoses off, make sure you either take out the drain screw, or have a good drain pan available to catch the anitfreeze when it comes out. Don't want to hurt the poor animals.

Several things can cause this overheating. Have you recently done a:
1. Check Hoses for Leaks
2. Check Radiator for Leaks --- Also, Change Radiator Cap ( can loose pressure there if
cap is bad)
3. Check Water Pump for Leaks. If Water Pump is bad, you will hear a loud noise from it
4 Complete Tune Up? Should be done at least 1x a Yr. Depending on how much you drive the Vehicle. Includes: Plugs, Plug Wires, Gas Filter, Air Breather Filter, PCV Valve, Adjust Timing,
Check Belts -- see if worn
5. Changed your Thermostat & Gasket and have the correct degree Thermostat in the Vehicle?
6.. Had your Radiator Rod and Cleaned out?
7. Temperture Sending Unit (located near Thermostat) could be bad
8. 02-Sensor (Generally located in the Exhaust Manifold - needs a socket with a space in it
to allow the Socket to fit over this top wire of the 0-2 Sensor )
9. Change oil and oil Filter.
10. Change Gas Tank Cap ---

Do all this yearly ( except the Radiator Rod & Clean ( do every 2-3 yrs), and you should not have
any over-heating nor stalling out, etc. and should pass emissions as well.

http://www.analogstereo.com/pdf/om/hyundai_tiburon_owners_manual_2003.pdf
• Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. • Inspection the timing belt before removing the cylinder head. • Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center
1. Disconnect the neagative terminal from the battery 2. Remove the engine cover. . Drain the engine coolant. Remove the radiator cap to speed draining. 4. Remove the intake air hose and air cleaner assembly. (1) Disconnect the AFS connector. (2) Disconnect the breather hose from air cleaner hose. (3) Remove the intake air hose and air cleaner. 5. Remove the upper radiator hose (A) and lower radiator hose (B). 6. Remove the heater hoses 7. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the cylinder head and the intake manifold. (1) OCV(Oil Control Valve) connector (A). (2) Oil temperature sensor connector (B). (3) ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor (C) connector. (4) Ignition coil connector (D). (5) TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) connector (A). (6) ISA (Idle Speed Actuator) connector (B). (7) CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) connector (A). (8) Four fuel injector connectors (B). (9) Knock sensor connector (C).