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I have a bad rattle at very low speed from the rear of my 2001 buick lesabre. I have checked the brake calipers,the control arms,the tie-rods,the bumper,the trunk,the springs,and the exhaust. I just replaced the air shocks as they were leaking. I still have the rattle. The wheels and wheel bearings are not loose. It is loud enough that you would think it would be simple to locate and repair. I can not duplicate the noise with the car jacked up or sitting still. Anybody ever run across this problem? There isn't a whole lot to the rear suspension of these cars. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have been a mechanic for 30 years and can not locate the problem.
It's the emergency brake plates, they're broken! You can just remove them and... viola! I have a 2005 Buick Century Limited. The metal rattling & clanging for months drove me to the brink. I finally found a mechanic that knew what the hell yes was doing & he fixed it.It's the emergency brake plates, they're broken! You can just remove them and... viola! I have a 2005 Buick Century Limited. The metal rattling & clanging for months drove me to the brink. I finally found a mechanic that knew what the hell yes was doing & he fixed it.
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You can also have someone drive and sit in the back seat and listen to which side it is on... Removing the seat might help you isolate the problem, while you listen. Wouldn't hurt to take stethescope or short hose along to listen. It probably is something simple as mentioned above, like myself when I couldn't find a large rattle... eventually found some loose tools in the spare tire well in the trunk. Hope this helps, Rick
Never is complicated and nearby.
30 years over here as well.
Either a stone or something in the boot.
Wheel bearings not loose is not good enough.
Open the bearings and inspect for damage rollers or broken cage.
Problem must be right simple in front of you. Always is.
Same goes for those brakes, look at them again.
The secret is keeping at rest and going through it methodically.
And not all sounds from the rear are from there. Beware
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forget all that ABS lamp stuff (BUT IS GREAT TO WARN)
it is telling you the brakes are bad. (WHY IS VAST)
1: ALL FUSES GOOD.
2: OBD2 SCAN THE CAR, AND FOR SURE ABS SCANS TOO.
3:IF ABS SCANS SAY A SENSOR IS DEAD, I MAY BE OR THE WHEEL LOCKS UP.
4: BRAKES ARE BAD, SORRY ABS CAN NOT HIDE BAD BRAKES., EVER. IT CAN ALLOW A TAD WEAK BRAKES AND TUNES FOR THAT. BEST IS FULL SCANS. PCM AND ABS BOTH USING REAL SCAN TOOLS THAT DOES GM. (BOP +CHEBBY)
BAD BRAKES OR , BAD AXLE BEARINGS
BAD CALIPERS, OR THE SLIDER PINS RUSTED AND JAMMED.
BAD PADS
BAD CALIPER PISTONS.
BAD WHEEL SENSORS. CABLES CUT
ABS MODULATOR DEAD AND FULL OF RUST INSIDE,DOOMED.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS ANYWHERE, NOT ALLOWED;.
OIL FROM SEALS BAD AND LEAKS TO PADS
ROTORS BAD, OR X10 WORSE CRACKED THIS MEANS A FULL BRAKE INSPECTION IS DONE.
MASTER CYLINDER DRY OR FULL OF 21 YEAR OLD USELESS FLUID? AND IS FULL OF WATER NOW>?
DOT3/4 IS A WATER SPONGE.
the shop is at fault as they have done the job and are required by law to find and fix any problems related to their workmanship
I would take it back and stand firm in your demand that they fix it under warranty any and all faults arising from their fittment of the parts and workmanship
other than that it sounds like the pads are hitting on a raised section of a disc and because it fades at speed ,it could be that the calipers are stuck on the mounting bolts and are not centralizing after brake operation
if the shop tries to "Fob" you off then see a lawyer to get results
Check all your brake lines especially those going to the bleeder valve where you find the most air when bleeding. Also check for leaks at the rear of the master cylinder and at the calipers and wheel cylinders. If either half of the master cylinder is going low, that shows you there is a leak somewhere. If it's staying full, I'd suspect the master as having an internal bypassing problem.
When changing pads and you push the caliper in for the new pad you should open the bleed screws. , then close and re-assemble. press pedal and open bleed screw and let it drip a little . gravity bleed. Did you turn the read caliper piston in and then press it down? The rear piston must be aligned with the pad. Did you pump the parking brake to reset?
Take skirting down in trunk on the side you are working on. Remove center nut on shock 15MM. Then jack that side up or whole rear of car and place jack stand or jack under control arm. Now you can remove the two 10MM bolts that fasten the bottom of the shock to the control arm, most of the time the speed nuts brake but you can hold on to them with a pair of pliers. Once this is done remove the shock place all hardware on shock and install. The new shock will come with an 18MM center nut. Hope this helps.
Hello mobrien. Depending on what your car is equipped with. Antilock brake systems work in conjunction with traction control.So if the antilock system has a fault, traction control will also default system off. It may also turn on low pressure in a tire if your car has that feature. In the bearing/hub assembly on your Buick there is a sensor ring that rotates with the axle. A sensor is positioned close to that ring to read wheel speed. A failed bearing doesn't necessarily damage the sensor, nor will a bad sensor mean the bearing is bad. But on your vehicle if one fails the assembly must be replaced as a unit. I hope this answers your question.If you have another leave it in a comment and I will answer you.
Check your brake line going into the caliper and the caliper on the wheel that makes the noise. It's probably a caliper or brake hose. Hope this helps. PHil
It's the emergency brake plates, they're broken! You can just remove them and... viola! I have a 2005 Buick Century Limited. The metal rattling & clanging for months drove me to the brink. I finally found a mechanic that knew what the hell yes was doing & he fixed it.
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