I am having an issue with the ignition of my 1979 Ford Granada. If I turn the key over I get the normal buzzard for seat belts etc. But when turning it over to start it. Nothing. But, with the key turned over and jumping the starter relay. It runs no problem. I can drive it etc. Turn the key off normal. I have replaced the starter relay, new alternator, and the battery is charged up fine. I was wondering if this issue is in the starter module or neutral safety switch (which I have not been able to find as it is a inline 6 auto trans - it is not on the trans like most Fords). This issue is baffling me.

This is a UK Model. I am in Canada, so this search query will work better for you than it does for me.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1979+%22ford+granada%22+2.8+valve+clearance+specs

..

Not surprisingly, many others have experienced problems with the ignition switch on this car. Historically, it is not a sound, but that the key is stuck in the ignition. http://repairpal.com/key-will-not-come-out-of-ignition-570 Your problem sounds different, but it may be related. Although I do not recommend the fix in the link above, it is possible the previous owner of your car did perform this fix and it has resulted in the problem you now have. My better guess is that the chime/buzzer has failed due to moisture or dirt and is no longer producing the sound that it should, but instead is altered to the ringing you describe.To disable follow these instructions:

1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN (or ON) position. (DO NOT
START THE ENGINE)
2. Wait until the safety belt warning light turns off. (Approximately 1
minute)
Step 3 must be completed within 50 seconds after the safety belt
warning light turns off.
3. For the seating position being disabled, at a moderate speed, buckle
then unbuckle the safety belt 9 times, ending in the unbuckled state.
(Step 3 must be completed within 50 seconds after the safety belt
warning light turns off.)
After Step 3, the safety belt warning light will be turned on for three
seconds.
4. Within 10 seconds of the light turning on, at a moderate speed, buckle
then unbuckle the safety belt.
This will disable the BeltMinder feature for that seating position if it
is currently enabled. As confirmation, the safety belt warning light will
flash 4 times per second for 3 seconds.
This will enable the BeltMinder feature for that seating position if it
is currently disabled. As confirmation, the safety belt warning light will
flash 4 times per second for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the
light off, then followed by the safety belt warning light flashing 4 times
per second for 3 seconds again.
I hope this helps. Good luck.

It is not the Module, It started and ran fine.Your old school test was very good thinking on your part. You don't say if its auto or standard I assume auto so Neutral switch should be on the steering column under the dash.

Hope this helps. If not there get back to me and I will look it up in old school library. Have to go.
Mike

You will need to replace the ignition starter switch, this switch is operated by a long steel rod from the ignition key cylinder, it is located under the dash on the top of the steering column tube, it has a very large connector going to it. See the photo below of the part.
Color of switch is black .

MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5011 {#F4DZ11572B} $18.96

You have a bad ignition module. It's a square aluminum box mounted to the fender, it's about 5" square and about 2" thick. It might say "motorcraft" on it in raised letters if it's still the original unit. It has two short bundles of wires coming out of it, each with a black plastic plug on the end. It controls your ignition system. The are the most common failure with this ignition system. When you go buy a new one they may ask "what color is the groment" this is referring to the color of the plastic seal where the wires go into the box.

substitute a known good coil.I understand it'll start and run for awhile?...it could be that the fuel system is vapor-locking.

I would suspect your key to be a duplicate key that you had made. I have seen this before. The OEM keys have something built-in to them that allows them to work. (I don't how they make them.) This was a theft protection issue so devious people that might have access to your keys somehow couldn't duplicate your key and steal your vehicle when your back was turned.

electrical fault ??but not sure where or what long time since i worked on 40tonners,sorry but when i repaired them the ford transcontinental was around and DAF and atkinsons with the legendary gardner engine.only suggestion i can make is make sure the back of the dash is earthed properly

there should be a door panel you can take off to get to the mechanisim.

remove and plug vacume line on the distributer and find timing specs on the motor in the vehicle using timing light hook transducer cable to no# 1 cylinder set the idle to manufacturers specs make shure motor is warmed up to operating temp now point thr timing light at the timing plate on crankshaft pulley start the engine and watch for the mark on the harmonic pulley see where it is at when running now if the mark is not lining up with sugested degrees from manufacturer then u must loosen bolt on distributer only loosen 1/4 turn now rotate distributer clockwise or counterclockwise this will make the mark on the harmonic ballancer allign with manufactures required timing specs after aligning marks tighten distributer and unplug distributer vacume line and plug it back into distributer. and test if u need anymore specifics plz read manual carefully good luck