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Spark plug settings on a 1989 chevy caprice with a 350 engine

Posted by gmcboyz48 on

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Mike Butler

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.035

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

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Chevy 350 engine

Was this engine apart?
If so, could be valve lash adjustment. too tight will cause predetonation, however a bad head gasket can be a culprit also. Do a compression check on both cylinders to determine. If your loosing coolant, good bet it's a head gasket. However, a cracked dizzy or carboned up cap can cause it also. I will tell you it's not a timing issue.
Dan
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1996 Chevy K1500 Silverado Door Lock issue. I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 Silverado with power locks. The driver's side door lock switch operates the passenger door but not the driver's door. I've replaced the door lock motor on the driver's side. I know that the lock/unlock switch sends power to the relay on the white or blue wire, and should return power back to the door on the TAN or GREY wire which attach to the door lock motor. I know that the polarity is switched as you push either lock or unlock. The TAN wire that attaches to the new door lock motor on the driver's side does not get power when pressing the lock/unlock switch, and does not go to ground either when the GREY wire that also attaches to the power door lock motor receives power. The GREY wire gets power when it is supposed to, and also goes to ground when it is supposed to. I need help determining where the TAN wire goes to. I tried replacing the TAN wire from the relay connector to the driver's door, but realized that by cutting it, it cut off the passenger's door they are linked together somewhere so both door's door locks operate. I hooked it back up the way it was originally. When I remove the relay and put power to the WHITE wire for the lock/unlock switch on the driver's door, there is a little 'click' that happens, but only for the White wire. The click is not unlike a relay sound, but I've removed the relay... Putting power to the BLUE wire does nothing. I'm wondering if the door switch wires pass through something before they get to the relay? I've check continuity on every wire, and the TAN wire is the only one that doesn't get continuity following the wiring diagram I have the Chilton's manual. One last troubleshooting step. I plugged in the relay and every other connector as if I hadn't touched it, and when pressing the unlock/lock switch I get power to the to the BLUE and WHITE wires attached to the switch as it should only one at a time. Those wires do have connectivity to the relay as well, so I know that the relay is getting the input it requires. Does anyone know where the TAN wire comes from, to the driver's side door which should activate my door lock motor? Thanks Much!!

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