Hi I'm from Australia too. First thing I would check is brake pad thickness, on the pad there is a metal pad thickness probe that rubs on the disc to let you know its time to change the pads.
see my wear markers comment, bingo.? check'g pads every 20k? miles?
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Wow first post ever for country, im GOBSMACKED !!!!
wheel ?steering wheel or tire/wheel.?
hard to find, they are, all squeaks.
first is to see if possible to do, no moving (big safety issue, yes)
bounce the corners of car hard, by hand.?
jack car up spin tires. by hand,
lever them below off ground, to see of balls are shot.
inspections here, look at every inch of suspenson and parts.
Brakes, i hope nothing breaks the brakes.
The brakes all squeak this is normal try lightly pressing the brake pedal, gently while moving slow, squeaking now is 100% normal and harmless. (the pads act like Guitar strings)
Use pad glue to halt it, or ignore it like me....
the pads have wear markers, they have this device that makes noise when pads get too thin, (look at em)
bad wheel bearings.
brake backing plate bent.
caliper guide pins rusted.
and lots of other things bad or just ok , old and making noise, like
suspension "A" arm bushing rusty, or stable bar , same.
moving noise is real hard to find.
SOURCE: im having trouble finding ball joints
havent a clue to be truthful ,just try fitting it but check the actual stud in case its a different size thickness as this can vary between build runs
SOURCE: Remove just the front hub?
You're not going to hurt anything. To separate the ball joints you smack the raised spots (nipples) on the actual knuckle/spindle (the big part you're removing that has the bearing) itself near each joint. Just don't hammer up on the ball joint bolts or accidentally hit the rubber ball joint boots with your hammer. You hit it hard and with good aim. Check frequently to see if it has broke loose while you're striking it.
The part you're taking to get the bearing pressed into has to be separated from all of the following: the upper control arm, lower control arm, brake caliper (don't disconnect brake line from caliper, let it rest on something and not hang), ABS sensor wire (if equipped) the axle, outer tie rod end (steering).
If you can't pull out all those little cotter keys you can take a tiny drill bit and drill the holes back out to make room for the new ones.
Testimonial: "Parts extremely hard to come by. A 'simple' repair a huge pain in the ***."
SOURCE: Honda Civic 2007 Civic . Cahange wheel bearing and
sorry to tell you this but it sounds like the wheel bearing was put in backwards on one or both sides. the front wheel bearings have a black speed ring built in and that is what your speed sensor reads off. - this is common as the front bearings will install either way- hope this helps
SOURCE: when breaking there is a shuddering and banging
Stop driving it. Not safe at this point
Now you know why, I work on my own vehicles
I would look over both front drive axles and make sure their correct for the application and in good shape
I would strip the front brakes down next,and go through whatever may have not been done correctly there.
Next check out all the ball joints,stabilizer links struts etc. Everything in the front end
With that kind of noise and braking making it worse,it should be a quick and easy find,to your problems.
SOURCE: torque on front ball joints 2000 Honda Passport 2
Lower ball joint specs:
Torque the ball joint-to-control arm nuts/bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). Torque the castellated nut to 108 ft. lbs. (147 Nm).
Upper ball joint specs:
Tighten the mounting bolts to 42 ft. lbs. (57 Nm) and the castellated nut to 72 ft. lbs. (96 Nm).
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