I would want to know if you have at least 12 volts at the battery posts, and also at the starter. You need to know if the cables are causing the problem, or something else.
Once the engine starts, it should be running off the alternator, but it still needs the battery in the circuit.
SOURCE: 1995 pontiac bonneville will not start
Is there corrosion on the battery cables under the insulation. There may be a smaller + battery wire going from the battery to the fuse block. Same for the ground. Are these cables clean and secure. If so start checking fuses and voltage.
SOURCE: 98- bonneville started to warm up ran for few
check and or change the plug wires also check for a crack coil pack which is highly likely on that model and also check the ignition module as well
SOURCE: 91 firebird v6 It started up drove it around block let sit for 45
my car is doing the exact same thing. these cars have a tendancy to jump time. the best way to check is to pull ur plugs and turn the motor over by hand till the #1 cylinder(front left side of engine) is up. u tell if its up by putting a screwdriver or something in the hole. then go to ur distributer and see if the rotor tip is on the #1 spot on the cap. if not the timing is off.
SOURCE: 1989 pontiac firebird was driving car stoped when
The security light would come on after making an attempt to start it.
The weak link in the VATS is the ignition lock. It has two small wires and they move when ever the lock cylinder is turned (to on or start...).
You can see where the wires break,
If you have a multi meter you can test it without taking much apart.
Measure the resistance of the chip in the key (touch a test lead to each of the sides of the chip)
Note the resistance.
Remove the trim panel under the drivers side of the dash.
Locate the wires and small black plug,
Unplug it and with the key in the ignition lock (does not need to be turned on or anything) measure the resistance between the two wires at the plug (the wires on the column side both white, black or yellow. Not the wires on the harness side).
The resistance should be the same or very, very close to the resistance of the key chip. If the resistance is too high or infinate then you have a break in those wires (note the top image).
You can cut the wires off the column, solder resistors that equal the keys chip (its actualy a resistor) to the wires and plug that back into the main harness. This is NOT a VATS bypass as many on the net believe. It simply bypasses the weak link, the lock cylinder. The VATS module is still in use. Though with this bypass, there is no security from the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System).
Or you can purchase a new lock cylinder. It will come with a key and you will then need to make a copy of the new key but with a blank that has the proper resistance.
If you do go with a new lock cylinder I also did a write up (with images) here not long ago for a person with another 89 that had a bad lock cylinder. You can search for that or let me know and I will write it up again.
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