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I have a couple problems and I'm not sure if they're related. When I try and start when the engine is warmed up, it usually just turns and turns and then starts. Gets worse if it's really humid/damp (cold is fine). Was thinking possibly rotor/distributor but then recently (this happened twice in about a 2 week span) I started it and most of my dummy lights, including my hi-beam indicator, came on and stayed on while I was driving. I made my stop and when I restarted it was back to normal. Now I'm trying to relate the 2 problems and I'm thinking PCM. Any help would be great.
how old is battery or does battery have any corrosion check to see if battery don't have a bad cell this may cause your pcm to go into limp mode which may cause bad start! double check the cables to see if loose or bad connection! or bad spark plug wires try these steps to verify that the pcm is ok that can get pretty expensive !!
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Sudden no starts are usually gas or ignition spark related. You could check for spark on a spark plug wire OR you could spray a shot of starting fluid into the air intake, and then try starting-if the engine fires up briefly, then you know it is a fuel problem-maybe the pump or the filter or an injector circuit problem. The fuel pump should turn on for a couple of seconds when turning the key to on, not start. This puts fuel pressure in the line and at the injectors. If you have gas up to the engine under pressure, the pump is working. You should still have the fuel pressure checked to make sure it is at the correct pressure for your vehicle-a worn tired pump may not be doing good enough.
If the starting fluid causes not a peep from the engine, check for spark. If no spark, the ignition system will need diagnosing. It could be a fuse or an ignition part failed-the coils, the ignition control module, the crank position sensor (for timing of the spark), the ecu, etc.
Aside from building a garage or installing an engine block heater I have used this trick in the past on my 98 RR HSE. It may work for you if the starting issue is simply temperature related. Placing a shop-light or shielded work light underneath your block at night will produce just enough heat in many cases to overcome the slow starting problem.
Other possibilities may be under powered/weak battery. The rovers are known for high cranking amp demand and a weak or mismatched battery could certainly cause this problem. On the outside chance that it may be fuel delivery related you might try priming your fuel injection prior to cranking. Do this by turning key to position 2 (or last position before crank) wait til all the bells and whistles stop usually about 3-5 seconds, and repeat a couple times. If this is helpful, the bad news is it may be indicative of mechanical issues on the horizon.
****SAFETY NOTE***** PAY ATTENTION TO LIGHT PLACEMENT MAKING SURE NOT TO PUT IT IN PATH OF OIL LEAKS.
Hope this helps.
jlwhelen,
I will suggest that perhaps the blue smoke is not purely oil. It sounds like you may have an ignition problem where the engine has a hard time firing until warmed. The blue smoke may be, at least in part, unspent fuel. I realize that a warm engine that uses oil will smoke blue, but excessively rich conditions on startup can result in a similar effect. If the choke circuit is delivering a little extra fuel from a dirty injector, the problem may be worse when starting from cold.
To remedy this, I would suggest a simple replacement of plugs and wires, as well as a fuel injector cleaner through the tank. I would bet money that these simple maintenance points would solve your problem.
Suspect the glow plugs or timer not working proper. You could plug your truck in keep the engine warm so it starts easier. Or you could have the glow plugs tested and replaced if faulty. Your engine has 8 glowplugs and even a couple faulty glowplugs will cause problems starting. You could have injector or injection pump problems as well but harder to diagnos yourself.
the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valves like to stick on these cars, they get fouled up with carbon and if they get stuck open, the car will not want to idle well and even stall out. they are vacumn operated and can usually be cleaned with some carb cleaner and small picks. before you clean it, try moving the diaphram up with your fingers and see if it comes back down. this will tell you if its stuck. the EGR manifold port can also become clogged solid and requires removal for cleaning.
You need to replace your IAC (idle air control valve). The IAC, like it sounds, control the idle of your car. When they go bad they will cause the low idle and stalling. The IAC is located on the throttle body and is usually held on with a couple of screws. It is an easy relatively cheap fix that you can take care of by yourself. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for rating my response and for using FixYa!
heat related issues usually fuel blockage or electrical resistance to ignitors...run on indicates fuel issues at pressure head not shuttign off fuel.. so check there first...also many related engine management sensors are related to fuel dilvery so get code checked and computer tested/.... good luck
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