Started with smoke rolling out from under can after shutting off engine. Re-started car after no apparent visual source. Power steering was not working. Here's action already taken:
> replaced power steering pump - steering restored... pwr steering fan not running. shut off engine.
> Removed fan - ran fine when jumped to direct 12v pwr.
> Continuity checked thermal fuze. Burnt out - replaced fuze... still w/n work after driving car for several miles.
> Connected Fan & short wiring harness with thermal fuze. Fan ran fine when jumped to direct 12v pwr.
> Swapped 246 fan power relay - fan will not work.
> Disconnected negative bat terminal to reset computer - no change...
> Pwr steering fan should run when engine fan is running in high stage (236 degrees C.). Blocked off radiator to attempt to induce overheat condition to get pwr steering fan to run - engine fan cycles on & off but pwr steering fan still will not run.
I've run out of ideas... I do not have access to OBD or wiring diagram. Check engine light is off..
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The whining noise you hear coming from the power steering pump is one of three things. The first is more of a loud "hush" than a whine; this is the sound of fluid rushing through the bypass valve when you turn the wheel all the way to one side or the other. Sometimes the bypass valve malfunctions or doesn't open all the way, causing pressure to back up in the pump and cause your engine rpm to drop. The second and third causes result from cavitation -- vacuum pockets created behind the rotor's vane blades as a result of extremely high pump action -- or air in the lines.
Once again, computer, computer, computer! there is a control panel associated with the coolin/fan system. It is intergrated with the radiator, cooling fans, air flow sensors, A/C, engine temp sensors, etc.. So you are going to have to take it in to a qualified mechanic. They will be able to determine what needs fixin and or replacing. Had the same problem wit my A/C fan and sensor system. For over a year I had rigged up a toggle switch that I taped to the intake manifold (I think). And every time the temp gauge went up. Out I went, Hood up and switch, switched. I just had to remember to turn it off when I left the car. Otherwise it would run down the battery.
Hope this helped,
the fan is running because the sensor is picking up a hot spot(top of the engine(head)when you switch on again the computer is verifying the engine temp)to see if it needs choke)then shutting down the fan.....this is why one needs a computer to find out whats what with modern cars......
I had the same problem, there is a cooling fan for the power steering pump that went out and caused some damage to the pump. The intermitent problem finally got worse and I had the pump replaced read: expensive about $1000. See if they have a rebuilt pump available.
I had this exact same problem -- for about a year and a half! Replaced thermostat, replaced sensor twice, replaced overflow tank, replaced radiator cap, placed a grounding kit on the car in case the problem was electrical ... and was ABOUT to replace thermostat again and then the water pump when a new mechanic suggested we bleed air out of the cooling system. The heater core was PACKED with air, as was the upper hose valve area. Previous mechanic had been using a pressurized fill device to bleed the system and this had just been backing air into the heater core. There are two valves under the hood for bleeding air -- one on the heater core and one on the upper hose. It only takes a few minutes to fix this!