Pictures of removing gearbox and transfer case from vehicle

Depends on what sort of set up you have.

If there's a transfer case - it's like another gearbox on the transmission - it's the transfer case (I.e a gearbox..) that supplies power to your front wheels.

The transfer case is itself powered by the transmission. You will have a propshaft (driveshaft) running from the transfer case to the front differential.

just a drive cv.... replace

if leaks or more things found wrong
remove transfer case from gearbox
take apart properly
new seals new parts
wont be the only worn part

Park the vehicle in a clean dry well lit place. Work with safety in mind. Its always good to take pictures as you strip the/ a assembly. Refer back to pictures if you get stuck. Dis-connect the battery. Remove the gear linkages and speedo-drive and power cables from the gearbox. Remove the starter motor. Loosen the propshaft. Mark the yokes of the propshaft- for upon installation to avoid an unbalanced propshaft. Loosen the centre bearing. Remove the propshaft. Remove the cross member underneath the gearbox if there is one. Loosen bolts around the gearbox to cylinder block. Use a gearbox jack to support the gearbox. Take the bolts out from the gearbox to cylinder block. Pull gearbox backwards. Lower the gearbox. This is pretty much the standard way of removing gearbox. Note, there might be a transfer box, normally with 2 propshafts. Mark the yokes. Remove propshafts, transfer box and then gearbox. Remember to always work safe.

How to Remove a Chevy Blazer Rear Transfer Case The transfer case on a Chevrolet Blazer is underneath the vehicle, mounted to the rear of the transmission. On four-wheel drive vehicles, the transfer case takes power generated by the engine and channeled through the transmission and directs it to the front and rear drive axles. Over time, the gears and bearings inside the transfer case can wear and the transfer case must be rebuilt. The transfer case on this vehicle must be removed before it can be serviced.
Things You'll Need

• Wrench set
• Floor jack
• Jack stands
• Socket set
• Masking tape
• Marker
• Needle-nose pliers

Hide Instructions

1. Removing the Driveshafts
   • 1 Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.
     

2 Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.

3 Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.

4 Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.

5 Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.

Removing the Transfer Case

• 6 Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.
  
• 7 Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.
  
• 8 Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.
  
• 9 Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.
  
• 10 Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle
  

HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

N on the gearbox/transmission is Neutral for the transmission. Nuetral meaning that the power is not going anywhere so you are not going to move anywhere. The N next to the 2high, 4high, 4low is for the transfer case in nuetral. The transmission sends power through the transfer case and the transfer case sends the power to the rear wheels or front and rear wheels depending if it is in 2hi, 4hi or 4lo. The N setting for the transfer case is used when towing the vehicle with all wheels on the ground, like people do behind a big RV/motor home.

Suzuki Samurai/Sidekick/Tracker 1986-1998 Repair Guide
Transfer Case Assembly - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Samurai Models
Even the 2WD Samurai uses a transfer case. Rather than use a straight line driveshaft from the transmission to the differential, the Samurai leaves the transfer case in place and replaces its internal working with a simple offset gear mechanism, thus keeping 2 of the 3 driveshafts used in the 4WD vehicle.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case shift lever.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Drain the oil from the transfer case.
4. Matchmark and remove the driveshafts from the transfer case assembly. Not all of the driveshafts need to be completely removed from the vehicle, just unbolted from the case flanges. In most cases, the shaft or shafts on one side of the transfer case can be repositioned and supported out of the way.
5. Support the transfer case using a suitable transmission jack.
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transfer case.
7. On 4WD vehicles, disconnect the 4WD switch lead wire at the coupler.
8. Remove the three mounting bolts and/or nuts securing the transfer case to the chassis, as applicable.
9. Carefully lower the transfer case from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Position and install the transfer case. Tighten the mounting bolts to 159-248 inch lbs. (18-28 Nm) and/or the mounting nuts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (25-34 Nm).
2. On 4WD vehicles, connect the 4WD switch lead wire at the coupler.
3. Connect the speedometer cable to the transfer case.
4. Properly refill the transfer case with an approved type of gear oil.
5. Align and install the driveshafts to the transfer case.
6. On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case shift lever.
7. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.

Sidekick, Tracker, Sidekick Sport and X-90 Models
On these models the transfer case is bolted to the transmission and takes the place of the 2WD transmission's extension housing. Therefore, transfer case is removed or installed as part of the transmission assembly.

Hope this help (remember rated this and comment).

I dont believe thatford ********, ---get under the cruiser half way along the gear box on the left hand side you will find a bung plug 1/2way up the gearbox that is your filler and oil just dribbleing out that hole is the level.----at the back of the gearbox but attatghed to it is the transfer case this is made of aluminium,at the back of this slight y to the left about 1/2 way up is another bung that is the filler for the transfer case and also the level ,NOW LISTEN GOOD if you havea hose conecting the gearbox ******** to the transfer ******** thats good it just means the previos owner ,.or one of them had their head screwed on . W hat happens is this, strange as it seems the transfer case oil gets forced up into the gearbox,with the end result that the gearbox gets over full and the transfer gets low on oil,what we have been doing for many years is putting a bypass hose between the two fillers and as the oil gets forced up into the gear box it gravity feeds back down into the transfer case,,,so if you cant find the bungs but you have that hose you now know what it is all about, -------please let me know if that solves your problem, I know I am right but it is nice to be told

use 15w-40 for the engine, ATF for the gearbox and 80w-90 for the diffs and transfer box. engine and gearbox have dipsticks for the levels, the diffs and transfer box have removable plugs for level checking, fill until the fluid comes out the level plug.

remove the carpet on the floor, remove the gear shift lever as well as the 4wd shift lever, remove the drive shaft (both) remove the bell housing bolts, remove the starter, place a hydraulic lift jack below the gear box , then remove the wiring connectors , then remove the cross member , then pull the gearbox out from its positin, drop the gearbox very carefully, when gearbox is on the floor, make sure its sittin on a up right position so it dose not spoil any of the elctric connectors especially the reverse light switch...(that seems to be the easiest way to remove a manual land cruiser gearbox) hope that wil help....