Question about 1998 Ford Windstar
My van pulls to the right, pretty hard. and it seems to be getting worse lately. just discovered today that the cords on drivers tired (front) are popping really bad. on the outer part of the tire. my husband is a mechanic and is willing to do the work needed, just need the measurments
Posted by Anonymous on
They do not wear out that fast, 80,000 miles is a typical replacement point in your Taurus., get a 2nd opinion, wobble can also be caused by bad tires, i.e. a separated tire cord inside the tire. rotated the tires and see if it helps the problem, also an alignment is a good idea.
I am a retired Ford dealer technician, 30 years in the business.
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Posted on Nov 24, 2008
I had the same problem that based on interner research is common for Fords trcuks/suvs. The common problem fro rear humming "rubbing"sound might be the rear wheel bearings/seal. These will need to be replaced as it will progressivly get worse and the noise louder and eventually the bearings can sieze. I would hesitate to take to a ford dealer if I were you as it can run $500-900. Take to mechanic that knows how to replace wheel bearings and seals. My mechanic replaced them for about $150. and the bearing and seals are around $40. A good way to test this is to raise the wheel were you can freely spin by hand...if does not spin or there is a lot of friction then it might be the wheel bearings.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
You have a possibility of a couple of things going on there. If I was there, Id be able to eliminate a few rather quickly....First, check the tire for any out of round condition by jacking up that corner and turning the wheel, sighting along the edge of the tread area to a fixed point so you can see any variations. Do the same with both sidewalls. If you have a broken internal belt, it can build up heat as it shifts while driving.
Next, check the brake rotors. If the brakes are staying applied slightly while driving, the rotor will begin to turn brownish or blue. If you find that is the case, check the caliper slides to make sure that the caliper can move freely.
If that seems OK, it is possible that the rubber hose going to the caliper has internally failed which can also keep the brake applied. If after removing the hose from the caliper, you cannot retract the caliper piston easily, then the caliper likely has rust around the piston bore and needs to be replaced.
A quick check for brake binding is to jack up the wheel after driving till it gets hot. With the transmission in neutral, try to turn the wheel. If there is excessive drag there your problem is one of the items I just mentioned.
Only other thing I can think of is some strange malfunction in abs system, but generally, you would have a failure light on the dash.
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.
The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)
Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).
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