Car sputtering and cutting off

Take extra caution while performing dirve cycles on public roadways. Drive cycles can be difficult to follow under normal driving conditions. Begin by: - Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. - Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above will set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog test.

Replace your MAF, its a little pricey around $280.00 or so but this will clear the code but make sure you have the ECM reprogrammed to perform a "learning" sequence since sometimes the code will not clear even though the vehicle will run like new. This reprogramming will most likely have to be a dealer performed procedure.

Next time the engine light comes on, get the codes pulled and get back to me

run the fault codes first to check for faulty sensors
what you describe indicates a problem in the exhaust in that when the exhaust gas volume reaches a certain level the sensors are reporting it and the ECM is not able to fix it
have an accredited exhaust shop check the cat converter
for failure and partially blocking the exhaust at speed
if it was a fuel pump you would run into problems long before the speed at which it occurs
AT best it could be an EVAP problem with the vent not working properly but I think that it is exhaust related

most likely the pedal get caught by the floormat. Try adjusting your floormat.

gutting the cat converters was not a smart thing to do
the ECM needs feed back from the sensors to regulate the air/fuel mixture and now you expect it to do the job with half the sensors removed
like trying to brush your teeth with no hands
replace the cat converters with new ones then run the fault codes to really find the problem area

The following drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to "sit" overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.

1. . Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
3. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

Hard to tell without testing different sensors.
Try having the throttle position sensor and/or the egr valve checked, one might be at fault. If both ok, further testing will need to done.

first thing is the engine light on?
these cars had problems with the on plug ign coils and if this is a misfire the comp will tell you which cyl is the problem.