Question about 2010 Chevrolet Impala LT

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2010 Impala turn a/c off engIne hot

A/C stopped blowing cool message turn a/c off engine hot. Temp gauge on cold, normally at center. Reserve tank low but not empty. Coolant overflowed when radiator cap removed. Not low on coolant. Engine did not seem to be hot. Scanned, removed code, still showed message. Replaced thermostat, still showed message. Replaced switch (sorry don't know name) still got message. Next day message gone. Drove five miles on 85 degree day, message came on less than five miles in and a/c blew warm.

Posted by Nez Gage on

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1 Answer

Anonymous

You need professional help
Have a local shop resolve

Posted on Jul 01, 2013

Testimonial: "No shit Sherlock. They don't make em like they used to. Maybe I'll try a FORD! They didn't take a bail out and seem to be trying harder. A bunch of people with the same car, same problem, no answers. Sigh."

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5 Related Answers

jimmy

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: Cooling Fan won't come on, coolant flows into overflow tank

there is a switch in the engine intake or cylinder head that controls the cooling fans. The switch is the one with only 1 green wire hooked to it. Turn the key to run, with the engine stopped pull this wire off and touch it to a ground( cylinder head, engine block) and the fan should start, if not look at the fuse, if it does you need to replace the switch.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Chevy S10 overheated, now heat doesn't work, leaking coolant

When an engine is overheating and then the temp drops on the guage, it's usually a sign that the coolant is not touching the temp sensor. There's no coolant in the engine. Putting water in the overflow tank won't solve this. Take the radiator cap off after the engine cools and put coolant in the radiator. you might have to crank the engine and do this several times, as the engine can develop air pockets that won't allow the coolant to travel inside the engine. If you don't see any leaks, and it still uses coolant, you've probably got a blown head gasket. Check for water on the plugs, check cylinder compression. If it slowly uses coolant, try putting a large box of pepper in the radiator or some of that radiator seal copper flakes.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

outdoorsman5

outdoorsman5

  • 631 Answers

SOURCE: COBALT TEMP GAUGE READS 250 DEGREES BUT ENGINE

Probably the temp gauge itself. Most of the time it doesn't have a problem but sometimes they do go bad. Did the car ever overheat prior to changing the solenoid?

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2002 chevy impala generates air in the cooling

how can i turn off a tire presure warning sign 02 impala sedan

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

ftw1952

frank thomas wilson

  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: Faulty warning light

You will see a switch with a wiring connector plugged into the radiators side tank at the right side. That is the low coolant switch

Posted on Apr 03, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks. It was difficult to see, even knowing where it was. Thanks again. "

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2000 caddy Seville ...after starting and engine warm turn on the heater and it blows cold air. Fan works / waiting for hot air and then all the sudden it kicks in. Engine at normal temp


Low coolant, if there is an air pocket in the engine it will make it to the heater core. Once there , the air coming out is cold/cool. Once the coolant fills the heater core, it gets hot. If the coolant is fine hot or cold, then have the HVAC system scanned.

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It probably low on coolant. The heater will blow cold when there is not enough water (coolant) to keep the heater core full. Check the radiator (not the overflow reservoir) when it's cool.

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Heat goes in and out and the temp gauge goes up and down


Your temp sensor has nothing to do with your heater. The temp sensor needs coolant in order to work properly. So first check the coolant level because if it is low your heater will act the way you describe. Once the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold. Another possibility is the radiator cap. After the engine has warmed up it expands when it cools down it contracts. As it is contracting if the cap is weak air can be drawn into the system and cause air pockets to form and will cause the same problem

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Air can be purged. While your engine is cool remove radiator and reservoir caps. Place funnel in radiator. Turn heat to the highest position and start vehicle. Add coolant to radiator as needed while vehicle warms up. You should see bubbles coming out of radiator. Fill reservoir to between cold and hot fill lines. Replace caps when bubbling stops but before coolant temperature reaches normal operating temperature. Never remove the radiator cap until engine has fully cooled down.

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Does the vehicle overheat on the road? If it does and pushes big burps of coolant into the reserve tank then you could have a head gasket leak. Usually what happens with a head gasket leak is that the engine will often start and run normally but will soon start to push coolant out in a kind of foamy burp as the combustion gasses that accumulate in the engine block force their way out. You can have a small head gasket leak that allows combustion gasses to escape into the cooling system without getting coolant back into the engine and often the first symptoms of this kind of a leak is a motor that suddenly overheats, the heater quits blowing hot air and after a short while everything returns to normal for a day or so. As the leak worsens however it may keep pushing coolant out of the reserve tank with a cool or cold engine as the pressure builds to quickly for the reserve tank to handle it fully. Having said that if you have a perfectly good cooling system that is hot and take off the radiator cap it will spray blistering coolant coolant all over so never remove the cap from a warm or hot cooling system! Most additives won't stop a head gasket leak as there is just too much pressure for them to "stick" in the leak and they just get forced out of source of the leak. It's rare but you could have a water pump that's not circulating enough coolant around but usually you have different symptoms than this.

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My 2004 Sebring heater only blows warm air when the car is moving. If I stop at a traffic light or put it in park it blows cold air. Any ideas?


1st check the coolant level. If it's low, what you describe will happen. If level is ok, let me know, and include info on engine temp gauge--how long to warm up, is gauge at warm up low temp range, normal, or hot?

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It sounds to me like you're low on coolant. When you checked the coolant level, did you actually open the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full? The plastic tank you generally add coolant too is actually an 'overflow' or 'reserve' tank. There is a hose that runs from that tank to the top of the radiator so if the radiator gets low on coolant, more coolant -should- run in from the overflow tank. However in practice this does not always work. I have a Jeep that leaks coolant and experiences this exact same problem. Coolant will not run from the reserve tank into the radiator because the hose is plugged up, and whenever the radiator gets low on coolant the temp gauge will go real high and then drop, and the heater doesn't work well. This is because the cooling system of your car is supposed to be a closed system, full of coolant and no air. When coolant leaks out, the space it used to occupy is now occupied by air, which does not transfer heat well. When 'air' is passing through your cooling system, no heat can be transferred from your engine to the heater and radiator, resulting in a hot engine and no heat at the heater. Then when a pocket of water passes through the system, the temperature gauge quickly falls as the water absorbs the heat from the engine. The hot water that cools the engine is where the heater gets it's heat from as well, so when water passes through the heater core, the heater works, but when it's filled with air, it doesn't.

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