Will a stock Ford radio fit into a Chevy? Don't

Check your wiring and fuses you likely have a short some ware .I would start at the radio hock up look for melting and burning on wire jackets if you don't have a plug in connector on the radio that fits into a connector that is in the harness of the stock vehicle you need to trace any wire you cut .

It may fit, but the connectors changed on most Ford models after 2000.

Should be another sensor on other side of engine practice unplugging that one to see why this one is difficult then gotta get header tube off fitting or move fitting position so it clears I would imagine it worked out before if not things may get tougher but fixable I won't advise it but a good pinch bar and wedge would be an option start engine get headers cherry red and work quickly gotta be brave and crazy with care it's an extreme that most should pass on for all the things that could go wrong I'm guessing you better not go there new headders are pretty cheap.

Edelbrock and Carter both make 2 bbl. carbs for 351W. that will fit stock intake.
Distributor should not turn on it's own. Only with the engine running

It is possible that you have had 2 bad coils, but it's unlikely. You don't say what the history of the second coil was or if it was new, or had been working reliably before you fitted it. You also don't say whether you fitted a third coil. I think I would be looking carefully at the wiring to the coil, maybe there is a bad connection. It is also unlikely that the coils are being destroyed by anything else After getting it going have you re fitted the second or first coil to make sure they still don't work? Finally you have you checked the ballast resistor if there is one and whether you have used the correct voltage coil.
Also see here you may find this helpful
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1045556-ballast-resistor-or-resistor-wire.html
regards

This may not be very easy. Presuming that the aerial cable was already there and there was a standard plug on the cable that fitted into your standard socket on the radio, and presuming that you are confident that it all fitted OK, then the problem is with a faulty cable or aerial.

Just before you start, can I suggest that you DO test the radio and check that there is no fault in it. Particularly if you have removed an old radio with perfectly good reception. You might want to take it back to the shop and ask them to hook it up and test it for you. If the radio is clearly good, then my thoughts are as follows:

Typically the fault will eventially trace down to a portion of the outer copper brading in the cable being in contact with the inner core that carries the radio signal. This is usually right at the end in the plug and it's worth cutting off the plug and refitting a new one as a first step (You might even be able to carefully bare the inner core of the cable and push it into the cernre hole in the socket of the radio and test it before the new plug is fitted).

The second area of failure is typically the point at which the cable reaches the car aerial. It's not uncommon for water to get into a seal wher it is attached to the body and affect the performance of the aerial. Once again, you MAY be able to snip the cable at this end and re-make a nice clean dro connection. I have to be honest and say I don't know how the fitting go in this vehicle, so I'm shooting in the dark a little here. Obviously, if the vehicle has a built in aerial in the windscreen or back window somewhere, then my last suggestion is pretty redundant.

Finally, having tried to re-make connections at both ends of the cable, it's potentially time to buy a new aerial and cable and re-fit the whole thing from end to end. This is not a very fun job!

Most of the standard Ford and Chevy tanks the 1980-1990 for pickups was 20 gals with long necked fills - so you could fit 21 gallons per side.

Reasonably easy to install. Remove the old shocks and replace them with the air shocks. Place the hose fittings where they won't run into anything. Attach the hoses and run them to the rear bumper. attach both lines to the "t" fitting supplied in the hose kit. find a hole in the underside of the rear bumper (or drill one) and mount the "t".Fill the shocks to around 40psi and check all your connections with soapy water to make sure they don't leak. Secure the lines to the chassis so they don't hang down and you are finished! One note. The fittings do not need to be super tight. the small "o" rings in the kit are pretty fat and usually seal pretty well hand tight. On a truck, generally you don't need to jack it up to do the job. If you do, take care not to raise it so far the wheels hang as the rear can drop when you disconnect the shocks.
It won't fall out but even a drop of several inches can hurt if your head is under there!!

You just need to Locate one from a 350 Chevy. They have the Same Bolt Pattern.

Ebay has the tool for removal cost $1 plus shipping. this tool is for the 2 holes on left and right side of radio face fit tool in then push alittle out worad and pull. Follow aftermarket instructon on install.