1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Stalls out,engine quits running
Engine dies all the time! Blew out muffler twice.Replaced muffler and catalytic converter with o2 sensor. Still stalls out and backfires.Some days no problems at all.But most days still dies 2 or 3 times on 18 mile drive to work.Will backfire on expressway and die out.Sometimes it will start right back up and other times take 5-20 minutes to get started.It has 200,000 miles and plugwires and plugs were changed about 75,000 miless ago.Does not have to be hot for it to die on me, weather or engine temp.This is very troublesome for me! Please help!
Re: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Stalls out,engine quits...
Since its a 1997 your jeep has EFI, electronic fuel injection. The most probable reason for your troubles would be the injectors or a problem with the computer controling them, not allowing enough gas to be pushed into the cylinder causing stalling or lack of power, also too much gas iin the cylinder can lead to back firing and stalling. This would also explain the reason it takes so long to start back up some times, all the excess gas in the cylinder is flooding the motor and u have to wait till the gas disipates till the engine will turn over.
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Most reputable muffler shops will have a flow meter that they can test the back pressure at the cat. This will tell you if it is clogged up or not. I would say that with you needing an O2 sensor that maybe the engine was running rich and clogged up the cat.
sounds like the cats are plugged up....remove the o2 sensors and see if it runs better. Mine would idle, but would pop and stumble when the gas was hit. Ran well for a long time but would stumble whwn floored, slowly got so bad couldnt drive it but it idled fine. Pulled the o2 sensors and started it up and all kinds of debris, junk, blew out. Replaced cats and o2 sensors and runs great. cost $2000.00 in parts.If you find that this is your problem, then check to see if the cats came apart and blew chunks into the muffler,,,,can cause a restriction and cook the new cats. Took me a lot of time to get this truck running right, but it sounds like youre dealing with the same issues..I went through the coil packs and chased engine codes for a week. Pull the o2 sensors and see what blows out; and if engine runs better.....hope this helps (spend some time pricing o2 sensors and y pipe with cars...you can save some $. good luck!
Hi, CO2 or just O2 sensor? O2 sensor may be going bad due to blocked/plugged catalytic converter. This can be replaced @ muffler shop...use a 'universal' type catalytic converter to save some money - you don't have to use a manufacture unless your state requires it.
Okay, lets start with you checking the fuel preasure regulator, this is a common problem with these the regulator leaks and the vac line connected to it starts sucking gas into the intake, this causing it to run rich and depending on how bad the leak is it will stall engine at idle, remove the vacuum hose from regulator and start engine then see if gas shoots out the vac connection on the regulator, if it does then replace regulator, hope this helps.
I also have 2001 S10, 4.3 V6 Engine code W, 4x4, Automatic, 137,000 miles. About 3 weeks ago, I had intake manifold gasket changed and every since then has been doing the same as yours. I suspected that the yahoo who did the gasket change got the distributor in wrong. I had one other mechanic tell me my engine was shot but the distributor , firing order was all right. Then I had another mechanic tell me that the distributor was in wrong and they fixed it but it didn't run any better. They also said the catalytic converter was plugged causing back pressure in engine. This past weekend I cut the catalytic converters (2 of them) off at the y pipe and now the engine will actually idle but still a little rough (and loud) but now the O2 sensors are not able to do their job. They say catalytic converters are only good for about 10 yrs anyway. To get the one piece replacement cats pipe in you have to drop the tranny crossmember, and to drop that it looks like you have to remove the torsion bars or at least one.
The check engine light is probably indicating a catalytic converter malfunction the Oxygen sensor that is located after the cat tells the computer if the cat is functioning properly it is possible the wire has been broken or damaged. To see if the cat is there jack up the car and look under the passenger and driver area of the car follow the exhaust pipe from the front back the first thing the pipe comes to should be the cat it looks like a muffler with a wire going to a sensor after toward the back side of it, I doubt they never installed one but I guess it is possible.
Most newer vehicles have more than one O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe for the computer to take more readings for better emission control .
Before the catalytic converter is the exhaust manifold to the cat. There should be one O2 sensor there in that part of the line.
After the catalytic converter is the cat to the end of the exhaust pipe. There should be one just right between the cat and the muffler.
A four cylinder engine should have two O2 sensors. Six cylinder engine should have three O2 sensors. With the six cylinder there would be two O2 sensor before the catalytic converter and just one after the catalytic converter.
Aaron, I had the same problem. It is the most expensive part of course the computer. I replaced everything as well till I replaced it. They are remanufactured and have had problems with them as well. I am on my third one now at 200k miles. Oh and by the way it does not show up on the diagnostic check. Good luck