We can't compress the fourth brake cylinder while in the process of changing the front brake pads on a 2003 Lexus GX470, in order to put the caliper back on the rotor. Any thoughts/ideas?
Caliper is locked up and needs replaced
Make sure to use a big C-clamp. Keep in mind that this is a machined part and must fit perfectly back in the chamber (mine came out when I had to put the car into neutral and I pressed the brake while the caliper was off - I suspect it flew out, but I just picked it up and cleaned it off really well with brake cleaner and fluid). From what I've read, buying a new or rebuilt caliper is silly since all the rebuilt caliper is someone putting in new rubber and fitting it back in.
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SOURCE: Changing rear breaks
Try tapping around the rotor hat (the area that actually fits over the hub, where the lug bolt holes are) with a hammer. That usually will loosen up a rotor that's stuck due to heat, dust, etc. As for compressing the rear piston, they're a screw-in design, not a compression design like the front calipers. You need a piston retracting set (you can borrow them from AutoZone), and with that you can screw the pistons into the calipers. After removing the reservoir cap underhood, screw them all the way in so that you have ample clearance for the new pads over the new rotors, then pump the brakes a few times before you hit the road (put the reservoir cap back on first).
SOURCE: changing rear brake pads
on the rear the piston winds back in at the same time as pushing it not like the front
SOURCE: 2006 Ford Five Hundred anti-lock brake pad replacement
hi its rare the pads stick to the rotor but obviously this one was welded metal to metal so if the other sides not down to the metal you won,t have the same problem now getting the piston back into the caliper if you don,t have the tool its going to be fiddling but you need to get some pressure on the piston as to shove it back in not to much as you have stated it has to be screwed back in once a pressure has been applied [could try using you c-clamp ] then the slots in the piston insert something that will turn the piston it will locate and start to screw back your going to need pateince as it is fiddling with the correct tool you may need a few attemps but the other side should not be as bad as the piston has not gone past the point of return take your time and check for leaks when you have them all assembled yates210456
SOURCE: changed frt and rear brake
The piston must be rotated as it is pushed into the caliper. There is a special tool for this that is sold at just about all parts houses. The tool looks like a small square with various pins for various applications that goes on the end of your 3/8 drive ratchet.
I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?
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