Left-front wheel bearing is worn-out

right or left side?

It's what you have left after you remove the front wheel and the brake. Kind of round casting that holds the bearing and connects the a-frame and upper ball joint together with the tie rod end so the wheel can turn. The wheel studs stick out of the hub. The guts of it are shown below without the casting. If your casting is bad, recommend a salvage yard for that part.

COUTESY OF EXPERT "C17HYDRO"
With Key

1. Disconnect the battery ground.
   
2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.
   
3. Remove the trim shroud halves.
   
4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.
   
5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.
   
6. Place a 1/8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.
   
7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.
   
8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.
   

This section is for a NON-TILT with no key or non-functioning cylinder:
Fixed Columns

1. Disconnect the battery ground.
   
2. Remove the steering wheel.
   
3. Remove the turn signal lever.
   
4. Remove the column trim shrouds.
   
5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.
   
6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.
   
7. Remove the turn signal switch.
   
8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.
   
9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.
   
10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.
    
11. Upon reassembly, the following parts must be replaced with new parts:
    
    • Flange
      
    • Lock cylinder assembly
      
    • Steering column lock gear
      
    • Steering column lock bearing
      
    • Steering column upper bearing retainer
      
    • Lock actuator assembly
      

1. Assembly is a reversal of the disassembly procedure. It is best to install a new upper bearing. Check that the vehicle starts only in PARK and NEUTRAL.
   

This section is for TILT and no key or non-functioning cylinder:

Tilt Columns

1. Disconnect the battery ground.
   
2. Remove the steering column shrouds.
   
3. Using masking tape, tape the gap between the steering wheel hub and the cover casting. Cover the entire circumference of the casting. Cover the seat and floor area with a drop-cloth.
   
4. Pull out the hazard switch and tape it in a downward position.
   
5. The lock cylinder retaining pin is located on the outside of the steering column cover casting adjacent to the hazard flasher button.
   
6. Tilt the steering column to the full up position and prepunch the lock cylinder retaining pin with a sharp punch.
   
7. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, mounted in a right angle drive drill adapter, drill out the retaining pin, going no deeper than 1/2 in. (12.7mm).
   
8. Tilt the column to the full down position. Place a chisel at the base of the ignition lock cylinder cap and using a hammer break away the cap from the lock cylinder.
   
9. Using a 3/8 in. drill bit, drill down the center of the ignition lock cylinder key slot about 13/4 in. (44mm), until the lock cylinder breaks loose from the steering column cover casting.
   
10. Remove the lock cylinder and the drill shavings.
    
11. Remove the steering wheel.
    
12. Remove the turn signal lever.
    
13. Remove the turn signal switch attaching screws.
    
14. Remove the key buzzer attaching screw.
    
15. Remove the turn signal switch up and over the end of the column, but don't disconnect the wiring.
    
16. Remove the 4 attaching screws from the cover casting and lift the casting over the end of the steering shaft, allowing the turn signal switch to pass through the casting. The removal of the casting cover will expose the upper actuator. Remove the upper actuator.
    
17. Remove the drive gear, snapring and washer from the cover casting along with the upper actuator.
    
18. Clean all components and replace any that appear damaged or worn.
    
19. Installation is the reverse of removal. Check for proper operation.
    

With Key

1. Disconnect the battery ground.
   
2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.
   
3. Remove the trim shroud halves.
   
4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.
   
5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.
   
6. Place a 1/8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.
   
7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.
   
8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.
   

This section is for a NON-TILT with no key or non-functioning cylinder:
Fixed Columns

1. Disconnect the battery ground.
   
2. Remove the steering wheel.
   
3. Remove the turn signal lever.
   
4. Remove the column trim shrouds.
   
5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.
   
6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.
   
7. Remove the turn signal switch.
   
8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.
   
9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.
   
10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.
    
11. Upon reassembly, the following parts must be replaced with new parts:
    
    • Flange
      
    • Lock cylinder assembly
      
    • Steering column lock gear
      
    • Steering column lock bearing
      
    • Steering column upper bearing retainer
      
    • Lock actuator assembly
      

1. Assembly is a reversal of the disassembly procedure. It is best to install a new upper bearing. Check that the vehicle starts only in PARK and NEUTRAL.
   

This section is for TILT and no key or non-functioning cylinder:

Tilt Columns

1. Disconnect the battery ground.
   
2. Remove the steering column shrouds.
   
3. Using masking tape, tape the gap between the steering wheel hub and the cover casting. Cover the entire circumference of the casting. Cover the seat and floor area with a drop-cloth.
   
4. Pull out the hazard switch and tape it in a downward position.
   
5. The lock cylinder retaining pin is located on the outside of the steering column cover casting adjacent to the hazard flasher button.
   
6. Tilt the steering column to the full up position and prepunch the lock cylinder retaining pin with a sharp punch.
   
7. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, mounted in a right angle drive drill adapter, drill out the retaining pin, going no deeper than 1/2 in. (12.7mm).
   
8. Tilt the column to the full down position. Place a chisel at the base of the ignition lock cylinder cap and using a hammer break away the cap from the lock cylinder.
   
9. Using a 3/8 in. drill bit, drill down the center of the ignition lock cylinder key slot about 13/4 in. (44mm), until the lock cylinder breaks loose from the steering column cover casting.
   
10. Remove the lock cylinder and the drill shavings.
    
11. Remove the steering wheel.
    
12. Remove the turn signal lever.
    
13. Remove the turn signal switch attaching screws.
    
14. Remove the key buzzer attaching screw.
    
15. Remove the turn signal switch up and over the end of the column, but don't disconnect the wiring.
    
16. Remove the 4 attaching screws from the cover casting and lift the casting over the end of the steering shaft, allowing the turn signal switch to pass through the casting. The removal of the casting cover will expose the upper actuator. Remove the upper actuator.
    
17. Remove the drive gear, snapring and washer from the cover casting along with the upper actuator.
    
18. Clean all components and replace any that appear damaged or worn.
    
19. Installation is the reverse of removal. Check for proper operation.
    

are your front right brake pads worn more than your front left? if so probable cause is the rotor. if not, most likely wheel bearing

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the front tire and wheel.
3. Remove the steering knuckle assembly, as described previously.
4. Remove the bolts attaching the hub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle.
5. Remove the hub/bearing assembly from the front of the steering knuckle. The bolt-in front wheel bearing used on the vehicle is transferable to a replacement steering knuckle, if the bearing is in serviceable condition. If the bearing will not come out of the steering knuckle, it can be tapped out using a soft-faced hammer.
6. 

1. Thoroughly clean all parts, including the hub/bearing assembly mounting surfaces on the steering knuckle.
2. Install the replacement hub/bearing assembly onto the steering knuckle, aligning the bolt holes of the bearing flange to the knuckle.
3. Install the attaching bolts and tighten evenly to make sure the bearing is square to the face of the steering knuckle. Tighten the attaching bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm) on Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze, or 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) on Sebring coupe and Avenger.
4. Install the steering knuckle assembly, as previously described.
5. Install the tire and wheel.
6. Lower the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.

You must replace wheel bearings in pairs to avoid loading the old bearing and, in time ruining your new bearing hub it is possible that you have already damaged the new hub

You have a worn right front wheel bearing - all your symptoms are classic signs of wheel bearing failure. You'll likely need a 6-8 ton shop press to replace it. Dropping your car off for the work and picking it up completed can run you $250-300, but many places will charge only $30 or so if you remove the spindle (which houses the bearing) and bring it to them, so they only have to press out the bearing and install the new one.

You say the rear wheel axles and bearings have been replaced, you mention nothing of the front wheels, you have the symptoms of a front wheel bearing being worn out, remove them and check for pitting in the bearing rollers or the bearing races, I am sure you will find a problem. Hope this helps solve your issue with the bearing noise.