Question about Cars & Trucks
Modern batteries don't like to sit unused for 6 years and may not take and/or hold a charge sufficient for starting.
If you don't already have one, you can get a digital meter for <$20 at auto parts or electronic stores.
While checking across the battery terminals, try to start. If the voltage changes very little, then the starter isn't seeing it well enough to draw current; starter, solenoid or a crusty connector can be blamed.
If the voltage falls down to 70-75 percent when trying to start, then the battery is probably dead forever.
Some, but not all, can be restored by applying 2-4 times their normal charge voltage and monitoring it to see if the drawn current starts to climb.
If it does, DO NOT LEAVE THE HIGH CHARGE VOLTAGE ATTACHED UNLESS YOU STAY CLOSE TO IT.
I generally reduce the applied voltage until the current drawn drops to a few hundred milliamps and then check it every few hours to check progress.
If you can get the charge voltage down to 1.2-1.5 times the rated voltage and still have current flow, the battery may recover.
Posted on Apr 21, 2013
There are several possibilities ranging from a defective starter, to bad cable connections, to the onboard security system locking out the starter relay, or an aftermarket accessory interfering with the starter circuit, or a locked-up/damaged engine.
I have had vehicles towed into my shop for similar complaints when the only problem was that the customer was using a cheap duplicate key that they had made at the hardware store that did not have the required computer chip in it.
I have also had vehicles towed in where the customer had replaced the battery and did not have good cable connections or forgot to connect one of the wires that was supposed to to get hooked-up to the battery connector.
Then there are the questions: Are you getting any kind of "clicking" noises when turning the key or is it completely dead? If it is clicking, WHAT is clicking? Is it the starter motor itself that you hear or just the starter motor relay? Do you have battery power at the starter "S" terminal when turning the key? If not, is the transmission selector in "PARK"? Does the shift indicator on the dash indicate that the transmission range sensor is in "PARK"? (possible defective transmission range sensor) Are there any fault codes stored in ANY of the modules connected to your onboard computer network?
It is really hard to say without being able to see the truck.
Posted on Mar 18, 2012
This is a starter solenoid issue. The best way to fix it is to change the entire starter, but there are solenoid repair kits available to fix just the solenoid. The rest of the starter is old, so it won't belong before it will have to be replaced anyway. I just do it all at once and be done with it.
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
SOURCE: battery has been tested and
you my have a bad starter ? but first check to see if you have a good ground on the engine block and make shure your battery ends are clean and good and tight...if these things are all good, if you can see and get to the starter tap on it with a hammer not to hard...sometimes this will loosen up carbon on brushes enought to start...Hiope this helps??
Posted on May 23, 2011
SOURCE: 2007 chevy cobalt ls won't
Ignition relay or fuse could be the problem. When you turn the key to start do you hear a fuel pump kicking on and or do you have spark when you hot wire the starter (I know it's hard to check while trying to start it)? You can email me back and I might be able to pinpoint it more.
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
SOURCE: the car won't start; lights,
Check the starter and the starter relay or fuse. A client of mines car was doing the same thing, it ended up being two issues, the starter not working anymore, and a relay that was bad. If I am not mistaken everything should be labeled in the fuse box under the hood and will tell you where the fuse/ relay is for your vehicle
Posted on Jun 12, 2011
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