Engine cranks ,but no spark.

Is there a tach place on the distributor cap? If so, use a test light on that terminal, engine cranking, see if the lite pulses? A pink wire should carry voltage to coil or distributor cap. It goes got with the key on? Use a test lite and check for voltage. A couple of possibilities, check the ignition module and pickup coil in distributor. Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank it? With gm bypass ignition, it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking rpms, not the computer.
There is an oil pressure switch in the fuel pump circuit, so once you crank it enough to bring up oil pressure and that switch closes, the fuel pump will run even w/o a rpm signal, but, for other components, the rpm signal is important.
The ignition module gets signal from pickup coil, engine cranking, then ignition module sends rpm signal to computer on purple wire with white tracer. If no signal, the computer won't ground the fuel injectors, among other issues.

First does the rotor turn when cranking engine?? possible timing chain is out or stripped gear..are you sure it has no spark??did you verify this with a high output spark tester ? did you spray starting fluid in the tbi unit ?

Try some starting fluid spray,If you get no reaction at all you might have a broken or slipped timming belt.
Look inside the timming belt cover housing if you can.
Look to see if the belt is there or if it moves while someone cranks the engine.
Good luck,pls. vote for this answer

Hi, Ok you have confirmed that it's not a fuel problem. You need to check for spark. Pull the coil wire off of the coil(secondary lead-looks like a spark plug wire) Have some one crank it over and listen for a popping sound. IF yes, spark is at the coil, that means all ignition sensors are working. Next check for spark at ends of wires after cap. IF no replace cap and rotor. IF yes remove a couple spark plugs and check for fouling(wet, fuel etc...) IF yes replace or clean plugs and retest for starting. IF no spark is present at coil you need to scan computer and watch for rpm signal. IF no rpm signal, replace crankshaft sensor with OEM delco part. BIGGEST problem with these engines is Cap and Rotor burn out.

first check for spark disconnect any plug wire from the spark plug remove the spark plug from the engine reattach the plug wire and set it on the fender well DO NOT TOUCH THE PLUG OR WIRE AND CRANK THE ENGINE AND SEE IF THERE IS A SPARK BETWEEN THE ELECTRODE AND ARM. if there is no spark you have an ignition problem check for 12v at distributor.
if you have spark then check fuel pressure the fuel pump could be bad.

First make sure your actually getting spark. Remove a plug wire and install a plug in it and ground it. Crank the engine over and look for spark. Next make sure your fuel pump is working the way it should. Turn the key to on and check and make sure you hear the fuel pump buzz for a couple seconds and shut off. If there is no spark then the ignition module mounted on the side of the distributor will need to be replaced. No fuel then you will have to replace the fuel pump.

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.

Check for spark at a plug first. If none then its either the coil or ignition module. The module is located under the coil.

this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle