Question about Cars & Trucks
Well, it is kinda hard to say. If the battery is more than 4 years old I would definitely consider it. If not put a charger on it until it has a full 12 volts and then use a load tester to see how it holds a charge.
Posted on Apr 21, 2013
SOURCE: the car won't start. i
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514
Posted on Jun 11, 2011
SOURCE: son's 2000 blazer has high
Sounds like two issues. That is not uncommon. One is more or less causing the other. The alternator is not charging the battery after the vehicle is started. This means that you are effectually running on battery power. Normally the battery starts the car and then the engine turns the alternator that powers everything and has electricity to spare to charge the battery. A loose wire or faulty electronic components in the alternator are usually to blame. The clicking occurs when the starter does not get enough voltage to turn the engine over. Occasionally, it will get stuck on the fly wheel. a gentle tap withe a hammer will jog it loose. Most reputable auto parts stores can test your alternator and will do so for free.
Posted on Jun 11, 2011
SOURCE: 2002 ford taurus won't start
Sounds like your not getting any fuel..Listen for the fuel pump,by removing gas cap and put your ear up to it..cycle the key without starting it and listen for the pump..sometimes you can beat on the bottom of the tank and it will jarr the pump and it will start running again..Not a fix but a conformation
Posted on Sep 08, 2011
Is the security light on or blinking?If not then do you have power to the starter.You can check this with a test light.You should have power when you turn the key to start.The test light should light up.Should be the small wire.I believe it is purple in color.If the security light is on then you will have to get the codes to see what is causing the no start.Hope this helps.Good luck.
Posted on Dec 07, 2011
There are several possibilities ranging from a defective starter, to bad cable connections, to the onboard security system locking out the starter relay, or an aftermarket accessory interfering with the starter circuit, or a locked-up/damaged engine.
I have had vehicles towed into my shop for similar complaints when the only problem was that the customer was using a cheap duplicate key that they had made at the hardware store that did not have the required computer chip in it.
I have also had vehicles towed in where the customer had replaced the battery and did not have good cable connections or forgot to connect one of the wires that was supposed to to get hooked-up to the battery connector.
Then there are the questions: Are you getting any kind of "clicking" noises when turning the key or is it completely dead? If it is clicking, WHAT is clicking? Is it the starter motor itself that you hear or just the starter motor relay? Do you have battery power at the starter "S" terminal when turning the key? If not, is the transmission selector in "PARK"? Does the shift indicator on the dash indicate that the transmission range sensor is in "PARK"? (possible defective transmission range sensor) Are there any fault codes stored in ANY of the modules connected to your onboard computer network?
It is really hard to say without being able to see the truck.
Posted on Mar 18, 2012
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