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Anonymous Posted on Apr 17, 2013

Desicant drier Desiccant drier breaks down, allowing tiny particles to foul up the a/c unit, causing it to be replaced. It appears to be prevalent in 2009-2011 Mariner / 2009 -2012 Escape models with around 40,000 miles. Please let Ford know if you have experienced this to help toward gaining a recall of this problem. Special Service Message 22492 on 2/26/12 from Ford acknowledged that there is a problem with this.

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  • Anonymous Apr 17, 2013

    Please also comment here if you have had a problem so I can count how many of us have had this problem. Need leverage to get something done.

  • Anonymous Jun 03, 2013

    My car has the same issue

  • Valley Dental Supply Oct 02, 2013

    Mine, same issue....service mgr said compressor caused failure, Ford still denied claim.

  • Mike Velemirovich
    Mike Velemirovich Jun 18, 2014

    I Just came from the Ford dealer. I purchased a 2011 Escape brand new in July of 2011. I have almost 150,000km so am way over warantee as per km but this is NOT EVEN 3 yrs old yet. Whole new AC system to the tune of 3G's. Unbelievable.

  • Dave Weaver Aug 08, 2014

    I am having the same symptoms on my 2010 Escape it started at just under 50,000 miles

  • Dave Weaver Aug 08, 2014

    From reading about this issue I am having the same symptoms with my 2010 ford escape

  • Anonymous Apr 19, 2015

    Hope this helps. Only 1 person that I have come across, whose Ford dealership valued his business, replaced his without cost. The rest of us schmucks took it to the backside. One person in Canada replaced his under an extended warranty every 20,000 miles and yet a last one at a shared cost with dealership once it was out of warranty. They know it is happening and everyone thinks it is "only them" but in fact we know that there are a lot of us, at least those of us who search online for a fix. Here is the special service message found online.



    SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGES 22492 2009- 2011 MARINER / 2009-20012 ESCAPE - A/C LACK OF COOLING DUE TO DESICCANT MATERIAL

    SOME 2009-2012 ESCAPE/MARINER VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT AN A/C LACK OF COOLING. THIS MAY BE DUE TO DESICCANT CUP MOLDING RELEASING FINE PARTICLES/DEBRIS INTO A/C SYSTEM; WHICH EVENTUALLY CONTRIBUTES TO A RESTRICTION IN THE SYSTEM. SYMPTOMS MAY INCLUDE EXCESSIVE HIGH SIDE PRESSURES; LOW SIDE PRESSURE CAN BE EXTREMELY HIGH OR LOW; A/C COMPRESSOR MAY NOT ENGAGE OR ENGAGES FOR A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME; PRESSURES SLOW TO EQUALIZE AFTER COMPRESSOR SHUTS OFF. IF ROTUNDA FLUSHING MACHINE IS NOT AVAILABLE REPLACE ALL COMPONENTS OF A/C, INCLUDING LINES. VERIFY ACCUMULATOR/RECEIVER DRIER IS PN BL8Z-19C836-B (ENGINEERING PN BL84-19E961-AB); REFER TO WSM, 412-03. IF ROTUNDA FLUSHING MACHINE IS AVAILABLE, FLUSH CONDENSER AND EVAPORATOR CORE; REFER TO WSM, 412-00. RECHARGE SYSTEM REFER TO WSM, 413-01 AND USE AVAILABLE SERVICE LABOR TIMES.

    EFFECTIVE DATE: 26-AUGUST-2012

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Cindy Ackerman

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  • Posted on Apr 18, 2015
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Can anyone point me to the actual service bulletin. My 2012 Escape did this (2000.00) My daughter's 2010 as well (4000.)
She took hers to a dealer while warranty was still good and they bled the AC (which we now realize pulled the dessicant back long enough to have it work poorly until the warranty expired.) 26 year olds don't have 4000. to fix the AC.

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ZJLimited

ZJ Limited

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  • Posted on May 15, 2010

SOURCE: 2004 ford escape wiring diagram

This is for 2005 Escape, its possible that can helpfull... LINK

Hope this help.

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vanyell

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  • Posted on Jun 05, 2011

SOURCE: an orange wrench symbol has

Doing some checking this is an issue with the HV battery and its normal operating temperature range where the temperature range is exceeded or an issue with the HVBT climate control system having a failure. You will need to take this to the dealer and have them run codes and to look at the temperature blend door actuator as well.

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A/C in my car

Two things pop immediately to mind...

but before even going there... be VERY CAREFUL 275 pounds seems terribly high for an '89... If something cuts loose at that pressure you best have all your helmets, flak jackets, gloves, glasses & cups on... (I'm just saying).

Pressure line should be hot and suction line should be cool... coming back to the compressor.. Yes...??

Lets get to the two things on my mind:

1. Malfunctioning Heater-A/C baffles cause lotsa grief.

2. Drier: Desiccant saturation by exposure to atmospheric moistures... replace or attempt recovery by pulling & holding a SERIOUS vacuum before re-charging your system.

ELSE: Ice crystals will form at the "ORIFACE" and PROFOUNDLY AFFECT PERFORMANCE...

PLEASE Note.
Pulling & holding a 29 vacuum also certifies your main compressor seal (ergo... refrigerant & lubricant will remain intact)... Any trace of OIL BUILD-UP on the front of the COMPRESSOR (or inside the hood in alignment with your compressor pulley) should be addressed... oil level checked & augmented (only as needed)).

Hope this helps

Seal

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1989,grand+marquis,5.0l+302cid+v8,1199505,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor+seal,6676 More Information for MOTORCRAFT YE57

Drier

More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM COOLING DEPOT 0233168
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Ac smells funny in 2005 grand Cherokee

How to Repair a Smelly Air Conditioner ' Home Guides ' SF ...

homeguides.sfgate.com > Insurance & Inspections > Insurance Basics
Foul smells from air conditioners are most often caused by dirt, mold and bacteria that build up within the unit. These odor causing particles can be found on ...
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Where is the accumalator located at and what does it do

An accumulator is a physical component in an auto's air-conditioning system. It is made of metal and is cylindrical in shape.

It is similar in shape, yet larger- than the a/c system's receiver/drier; which is another important component to a car's air conditioning system.

The accumulator is connected to the evaporator outlet, on the low-pressure side of the system.

[Whereas, the receiver/drier is located on the high-pressure side of the a/c system and can be connected directly to the condenser; or between the condenser and the expansion valve; and it serves a totally different function than the accumulator. 1.) it acts as a temporary storage container for oil and refrigerant when neither are needed for system operation; hence the name, receiver. 2.) it contains a filter that can trap impurities that may be inside the A/C system; and 3.) it contains desiccant to absorb moisture (humidity) that may have gotten inside the A/C system]

Anyway, the accumulator's primary function is to store liquid refrigerant that is exiting the evaporator, to prevent it from reaching the compressor. If liquid refrigerant were to enter the compressor, it could cause damage, as the compressor is not designed to pump liquid, only vapor.

The accumulator also allows the refrigerant the time to warm up and change from a liquid to a vapor, before being drawn back into the compressor.

An accumulator also serves as a temporary storage container for oil when the oil is not needed by the system and like the drier, it too contains desiccant and a filter.

It is recommended that both be replaced in the event the system is opened to the environment during the servicing or repair of the car's a/c system
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2006 Dodge Ram 1500 code p1128 and p1129

The prevalent cause is the fouling of the O2 sensors in the exhaust pipe and the catalytic convertor(s). This usually caused by the fuel not burning correctly in the combustion chamber. And this can be caused by: bad/no spark in combustion chamber due to weak plugs or electrical going plug coil packs; partially plugged fuel injectors and result being too much un aspirated fuel entering the combustion chamber; bad or old fuel, improper fuel octane for engine.

Suggest you fuel up asap with PREMIUM fuel (for 1 tank) and 1 can super concentrated injector cleaner for next 2 tanks. Check air filter clean. Check air intact air analyser sensor wire is clean, pull the plugs and check condition and gap, replace them if fouled or worn.
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Where is the drier on 2005 suzuki xl7 ac

alldata.com
suzukipitstop dot com, $4 day pass.
all USA cars, other cars in other countries my have diffr. A/C so......
or see those line there, follow them, i promise you will find the drier.

USA FSM quotes

  1. Remove the front bumper fascia.
  2. Remove the bolt retaining the receiver dehydrator mounting clamp to the condenser.
  3. Remove the receiver dehydrator mounting clamp from the condenser.
  4. Remove the lower receiver dehydrator bolt from the condenser.
  5. Remove the receiver dehydrator from the condenser.
  6. Install protective caps to the condenser to prevent contamination and desiccant saturation.

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AC compressor locking up when AC is on. 1999 honda accord

When you say it is locking up, do you mean that the pulley stops spinning completely while the motor is still running? (this might cause the serpentine belt to burn, come off, or the car to stall or shudder badly)

If so, chances are that either the compressor has already failed completely, OR inside your A/C system is a part called an Orifice tube. This is basically a small filter in the A/C tubing that is supposed to catch small particles and keep them from going into the cooler/evaporator in the cabin of the car. If this little part get's totally clogged, it will cause a back up of pressure and lock the compressor up. This is something that has to be serviced by a shop with specialized tools. DIY on a/c is a bad idea as these systems are SUPER sensitive (even the humidity in the air can ruin parts if you do the job slowly and without the right tools).

If this is your problem, it will likely mean several new parts minimum for your a/c system. If you can afford it, the best bet is to take it to a professional a/c shop. If the compressor has already started to fail and there is metal in the lines, then you may need to replace the whole a/c system as it is very difficult to flush all the metal particles from all the lines and the other parts and any left over metal shavings from a broken compressor will just break the next one as well.

If there is no metal in the lines and the compressor is still in good shape and just the orifice tube is clogged, then you may have caught this in time. You then might have to replace the accumulator/dryer, the orifice tube, and the Freon. The accumulator has a chemical drier in it that if it breaks down is what may travel downline and clog the orifice tube/filter. These 3 parts MAY be a fix for you. Best of luck!
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PAUL your answer is incorrect. The correct answer is cut the top cap off the fat tube on the condenser, remove the old drier with a wire or pliers, install a plastic plug which contains an o-ring to seal it. Many suppliers of the new desiccant bag/ drier sell this plug as part of the kit. Look around on the web to find one that supplies this plug with the new desiccant bag as the new part is useless without this plastic plug.
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Hello.
If you mean the porcelan part of the plug breaking, there is no normal cause for that part to break. It would have to have been cracked upon installation or removal by the socket used twisting at an angle. They are quite easy to break by improper torquing of that type. If you mean worn out, this can be cause by many things. Age, improper heat range, detonation, oil fouling, carbon fouling, etc, etc. You can tell alot about the condition and operating eficiency of your engine by what your plus tips look like when you pull them out. There are picture comparison charts available for plug failure diagnosis......Mike
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I cant fill my van 2003 sedona with fuel. i think there is something in the tank blocking the air outlet ir its stuck. i need to know how to fix the problem?

Hello! Do you have a Check Engine Light on? The charcoal vapor canister filter needs to be replaced...If the filter inside breaks charcoal particles will end up in the gas tank and foul the fuel pump...The filter cost under $10 the canister is $100

Guru.....saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

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