2001 F-250 7.3 DIESEL STALLED & QUIT & WILL NOT CRANK PLEASE HELP

SOURCE: truck starts, dies. truck runs good some days,bad the next

I've had as similar problem with my '90 f150 5.0l, i would clean out the IAV(idle air valve) on the side of the throtlebody with some carb cleaner. If that doesn't work you might have to repalce the whole IAV assembly.

SOURCE: f-250 won't start

does it puff white smoke then die? check your oil level, the injectors need oil. if not that then hydrolic pump

SOURCE: 97 F350 diesel check engine light stays on and is running rough?

Ok, lets take this from the top. I have a 97 f250 diesel. In mid may mine did the same thing. It's either one of two things. You have under valve cover harnesses (uvc). They slide in under your valve covers, you will see two wiring harnesses on the outside of the valve cover gaskets on either side of the block. Ok, it IS possible one of these slipped out of place and killed two of your injectors, causing the horrible running/ low idle/no power/ sounds like the truck is going to stall symptoms. The easiest way to check that is to unplug the wires while the truck is running and see if it kills the engine, if it doesen't unplug the other one on the same side of the valve cover. If both of these don't cause any change then you have a bigger problem, the IDM (Injector drive module).

FAIR WARNING: When you unplug the wires with the truck on it is extremely dangerous, it is 110 volt feed. It can kill you.

OK, the IDM is a silver box, 8"x10" approx dimensions, located on the driver side under the hood, over top the front tire. If you take the wires you unplugged and take a multi meter to them and they are dead, you have a bad IDM. This was the case with my truck. Ford designed the IDM to have a hole in the side to allow condensation to escape from it, unfortunately, this allows water inside and will short out resistors and practically kill half of your engine. Buy a new IDM on ebay for about $380. It takes 5 minuts to put it in.

I hope this helps you out man.

SOURCE: p1209,p1212,p0340,p0470,p1211

you should probably check your fuel pressure between the pump and the fuel bowl. my bet is that is is dropping pressure to zero causeing it to shut off just after it gets running. and there are several things that could cause that but the first to check is a return line valve on the side of the fuel bowl. that when pressure builds up it releases back into the tank and if it gets stuck open you will not have enough fuel pressure to run your truck. mine just did the same thing.

SOURCE: After putting premium gas in my 2003 focus on

Hello, Have a comment or two about your car. First thought was about Inertia switch in the rear cargo area of your vehicle. There is a reset button on the impact (inertia) switch for the fuel pump. You should hear the pump run the first second or 2 when you turn your key. It also has a power relay which should be in a black box of relays. There is also an Ignition relay on some Ford products.

When you tried the Starting fluid, you said it did not Start. But did it hit at all? When you did not have any codes on the computer, did the computer and the scanner connect or was the computer dead? Dead computer equals no codes.

There are a few things you can do and what I would try if I was there. Check the relays I mentioned. Go back to the basics and check for spark at the plugs and compression. If possible check fuel pressure at the Injector rail (which could lead back to a bad fuel pressure regulator). Check for power at the TPS switch at the throat of the Airhorn.

If you have no power to the TPS, or the fuel pump, check the Ignition switch. You have power for cranking, but the RUN terminal on the Ignition switch is a different terminal. Now for any missing test tools, you can get Loaners at Autozone and Oreillys with a deposit.

Would like to know the outcome of this problem. Thanks