Completely replace all the brake fluid in the car all 4 brakes. Re bleed them also. Check for any leaking around the master cylinder and hoses going from the master cylinder and calipers
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the c0236 is you have lost the rear sensor signal ... check grounds and all other connections to the ECBM. [under driver seat.] possible the ECBM is bad / top electrical portion or if live in rust /salty belt abs sensor harness -housing -connectors can be damaged or corroded --- https://www.obd-data.com/c0236.html https://www.engine-codes.com/c0237_chevrolet.html
EBCM relay is the actual fault code cause. EBCM stands for Electronic Brake Control Module. ECBM stands for Electronic Brake Control Module. It is the big part that the brake lines go into and back out of from the MasterCyl and to the Brakes. It is also the ABS motor all in one. The relay is under the hood at the Fuse/Relay center just inbetween the EBCM/ABS and AirIntake. Relays are big and square. The underside of the Fuse/Relay center cover has the ID and placement embossed into it of everything in the F/R center. Be sure to check the fuses first. The relay needs power to operate and the EBCM or ABS or Brake fuse will be the one for it. Good luck!
the c0281 code on a gm truck is the abs ECBM has lost the voltage to it when the brake pedal is not depressed. so if you are going at a speed above 10-15MPH and the ECBM looses the 12 volts to it ,when the brake pedal is NOT depressed ,, then this code gets generated. the brake switch has a 12 volt feed to the abs switch contact connector. the other side of this switch goes to the other connector pin. these switches wear out get dirty with time. replacing the switch or if your up to it take the switch apart and clean the contacts with a fine abrasive material to remove the oxidation. if pitted or worn replace the switch. one wire is brown the other is purple. working the brake pedal watching the volts is easy way to see if the voltage is steady when you wiggle the brake pedal.. driving on a rough road with a bad switch usually gets it acting up.
This is common for most cars. The brake light is required to come on with the ABS. But the ABS is not required to come on with the brake. If both lights are on I would take it to Auto-Zone or Advance Auto and have a free diagnostic scan run. With the codes they provide we can further suggest action from there. Typically ABS codes are related to wheel sensors. If 1 sensor goes bad it sets a code pinpointing its location. Not to fear tho..Even with the ABS light on you still have good brakes. In the event of ABS failure the braking system reverts to standard braking.
The ABS system is related to emergency stopping, not normal brake use, where you don't want the tires to lock-up when the brakes are hit very hard. ABS stands for Antilock Brake System. When the ABS light is on, the ABS system is not active. This means the ABS will not be Antilock when you need it. This does not mean you don't have brakes. The brakes you have are normal brakes without the added feature of antilock.
The light is on because a system fault has been detected. Most of the time this is a wheel speed sensor that has failed. Basically the system works by having 4 wheel speed sensors connected to a control unit. The control unit determines how much braking presure each wheel needs according to how much pedal presure you are applying, related to the vehicle speed, and the rotation speed of each wheel. If one wheel is spinning slower than the others that would mean it is locking up (less braking efficientcy) and the control unit then reduces the presure applied to that wheel so it doesn't lock up.
If a wheel speed sensor goes bad the entire system can't function so it shuts down and it is now a regular braking system. This means that it will work and feel fine to you, the operator. But in an emergancy, the ABS will not function and the brakes may lock up which is not as efficient as ABS.
I recommend you get it scanned for codes and find out what is wrong. It is a great safty feature that I think you are better off with, than without.
Some auto parts stores will scan your car for codes for free, like autozone and others. Call around and find that free scan. Then take it to a reputable shop, dealer, or your brother-in-law who is a master mechanic.
If the ABS light comes on, you've got trouble codes stored. Get the codes read. This is usually caused by bad wheel speed sensor, rust on the tone ring or metallic crud on the sensor
it sounds like a lot of seperate problems with the abs light just check to make sure there is plenty of brake fluid in the resovior what causes the metal to metal noise ??
Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light
If you are braking hard and one or more wheels lose grip, the ABS system will modulate brake pressure in pulses to the slipping wheels. That is a normal feeling when this is happening. If you have a pulsation under light braking, it is likely that you have brake rotors that are no longer true and and need to be replaced or machined.
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