1998 Suzuki Sidekick Logo
Posted on Apr 11, 2013
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After engine warms up, at crusing speeds, it stalls as if the ignition is cutting out or the fuel pump is failing. I can turn the ignition off while still rolling, turn it back on and the problem go

The transmission (automatic) was just replaced. I have checked that all ground wires were reattached. Also checked that all spark plug wires were firmly seated.

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  • Suzuki Master 20,706 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 12, 2013
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Joined: Apr 06, 2013
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You need a person to do , diagnosis. since it is repeatable, it can be found.
Ill presume you can not save the stall with a fast acting right foot, !!!
one can drive with a timing light attached, trigger taped down and see if in fact spark did go away.
there are only 3 fail paths. G16B engine , MAF based. MPI motor.
lost of compression hot. 98s have solid lifters , skipping the 60k mile service invites this failure. as does a snapped cam belt. do the service.
lost spark hot. (a tune up, cap,rotor,wire-set, spark plugs)
lost fuel (lost fuel pressure ) do a full fuel pressure test.
do at least the 5 tests, listed here.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 453 Answers
  • Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: After car warms up and stops wants to cut off

Sounds like you need a fuel pump. If its the original with114,000 miles then replace it.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 28, 2008

SOURCE: won't start

1996 sidekick wont fire up and start

Anonymous

  • 5158 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: finding truoble codes for 1994 suzuki sidekick

if you live in the states... just go to an autozone... they will scan the codes for free. you may also be able to retrieve the codes by turning the key off and on 3 times and counting the amount of times the check engine light flashes. almost like morse code... when you reach code 55 that's the end of the codes. this does not always work.

Anonymous

  • 19 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 13, 2009

SOURCE: doesn't start

It could also be your ECU. They have been known to have problems. It will create a no fire at the plugs. It could be the coil also. It might be the igniter that sits on top of the coil frame or the ECU. So if you hear the fuel pump it is electrical related. Good Luck

Anonymous

  • 784 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 15, 2009

SOURCE: my check engine light keeps flashing. i relpaced

You don't have the right ratio of fuel and air and it is detected through the Oxygen sensor causing the check engine to light up. However it is not necessary to replace the O2 sensor since it is not a source of the problem. The problem is the gunk built-up over time at your throttle valve before the input manifold. Need to have a good cleaning of throttle body and MAF sensor. After that, take off negative battery cable for 30 minutes to reset the ECU so it can start a fresh calculation from your new condition of Fuel: Air ratio input. Good Luck.

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1answer

Engine idle very lumpy and wanting to stall on gear down shift. Sometimes poor on starting until fuel gets through then car runs well but very smelly.

SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  3. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
  4. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  5. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.
  1. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
  2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
  3. Idle speed is set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
  4. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  4. Idle speed set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
  5. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  6. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  7. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace EGR valve.
  1. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
  2. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING

The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. The engine may be overheating.
    The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  1. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  2. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  3. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
  4. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  5. You have a bad idle speed control unit.
    The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
  6. The alternator may not be working properly.
    The Fix: Replace the alternator.

SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING

Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:
  1. There may be a serious vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  2. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  3. Broken linkage.
    The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.
Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.
0helpful
1answer

Engine stalls

This sounds like the fuel pump is failing. It will need to be analyzed and tested to be sure. the stalling at highway speed could be fuel starvation and the no start when warm is vapor lock, both point to a fuel pump that is not producing at speck pressure.
0helpful
1answer

Engine stalls, after hour or so engine starts again

It may be gas or ignition related. Try to determine which, when it stalls and won't start. With key on, you should hear the fuel pump turn on for about 2 seconds to pressurize the lines and fuel rail on the engine. If you don't hear the pump, and have no pressure in the fuel rail with key on, it is probably a bad pump.
If the pump is working, check for a strong blue spark on a spark plug wire after it stalls. If no spark on any of the plug wires, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or the ignition control module. Either one can cause those symptoms- failing after it gets warm or hot.
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My gmc 4.3 stalls when warm and wont start without ether. then it runs fine

I had the exact problem with my 1993 chevy c1500. I found that the IAC was sticking so the engine would die at idle after warming up and the ignition module was pulsing the ECM intermittently after the engine warmed up so the fuel pump wasn't being turned on after the engine died....I replaced the ignition module and the IAC valve and all is good. I don't know if testing the ignition module reveals that it isn't sending pulses to the ECM.
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My 94 grand prix 3.1 stalls and sometimes will shut down at crusing speed replaced fuel filter, throttle control sencer,idle contol valve. engine ligt will go on and off. when you let off the gas it runs...

You need to get the trouble codes. The engine light is telling you that. There must be a stored code or two. See what they are and go from there. If no codes are present, have the fuel pressure checked for possible pump failure.
If fuel pressure is correct (check specs, but probably about 45 psi) , then maybe an engine sensor is bad-maybe the MAF sensor. That's just a guess, though. Could be a bad computer, since it stalls at cruising, but could also be a problem in the ignition circuit-like the crank sensor or cam sensor.
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MY VAN STARTS WHEN THE ENGINE IS COOL BUT AFTER IT WARMS UP AND I TURN OFF THE IGNITION IT DOES NOT RESTART UNTIL AFTER IT COOLS. IT ALSO HAS STALLED WHEN SITTING AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT

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