Tim -changed front pads,caliber,rotors on 98 pathfinder.blede brakes when I pump pedal I have a pedal. when I release & push again it goes to the floor ?

Make sure your handbrake cable is adjusted properly. Adjust the rear brake shoes down to where the wheels turn freely with the linings only just touching the drums. Be sure to pump the pedal a few times after adjusting, then try again.
The front wheels (pads and calipers) will just about never bind, so concentrate on the rear wheels. If you do suspect the front wheels, release the bleeder valve for just a second and then try again.

usually when this happens its caused by the caliber being push beyond its normale operating range or contaminated brake fluid. you should change the brake caliper and flush the brake lines with brake cleaner then bleed the system with new brake fluid

MOST OF THE TIME WHEN A CALIBER LOCKS UP: IT IS NOT BECAUSE OF THE CALIBER BEING BAD. THE CAUSE IS THE RUBBER BRAKE LINE GOING TO THE CALIBER IS BAD INSIDE OF THE RUBBER HOSE. ONCE YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL YOU PUSH FLUID INTO THE CALIBER ONCE YOU RELEASE THE PEDAL THE FLUID DOES NOT ALL RETURN TO THE MASTER CYL. THE HOSE IS OLD AND THE RUBBER IS BUSTED INSIDE OF THE HOSE AND THE FLUID IS STAYING INSIDE OF HOSE AND HOLDING PRESSURE ON THE CALIBER. I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN TO ME AND NEEDLESS TO SAY IT COST ME AROUND $500.00 TO HAVE IT FIXED AFTER I REPLACED CALIBER, ROTOR AND BRAKES.

Caliper piston is sticking. Try pushing it all the way back to the bottom of its travel and then pump the brake pedal slowly and lightly until the piston has reached a point of contact with the pads.

I've not had much success with this method. Usually, if a piston sticks, you're better off to just replace the caliper.

If the brakes are spongy after a brake job the dealer should have blead them as part of the repair procedure...bleed the brakes and the pedal should firm up again.

You bled them with no brakes? That didn't work. You have to get a pedal going or something is wrong. You must have a leak somewhere you don't know about. Why did you replace the master? Fill up the reservoir, again, start at the right rear, pump slow, hold it even if nothing is there, crack the bleeder, release the pedal and try it again, slowly, pump, hold , crack , anything yet?? One more time, pump, hold, crack, tighten, release. and pedal yet. Go back and check the fluid level, did it go anyplace, if yes, go do it some more, if not,You have got something wrong with the master, pump up the pedal again and crack one of the lines at the master, see what happens. Check it out, hope this helps.

Make sure that the brake pedal has about 3/4" of free play before it actuates the master cylinder. Remove the front wheels and try to push the pads back into the caliper cylinders a little. This normally takes some effort. When pushed back, try to slide the caliper casting in and out as it normally floats to equalize the braking effort on both sides of the rotor. The pads depend on some lateral movement of the rotor turning to back off the pads as there are no springs to push them back. Make sure the pads are not worn to the extent that the little wear-warning tabs are touching the rotor. Hope this helps!

remove the two caliber bolts that hold it to the bracket,use a screw driver to put inside inspection hole and pull towards outside of car,now you can pull it off,pop the pads out ,put the new ones in,take a large pair of water pump pliers and compress the caliber piston back in the caliber the whole way,put caliber back on reinstall bolts and then do the other side,before starting car pump brake pedal back up this will push the piston back out against pads then you will have a full pedal again,

Raise and secure on stands after breaking loose the lug nuts and parking brake on for front pads.. Remove wheels and spread old pads back to push cylinders back in their bores on calibers to allow for thickness of new pads. Remove the 2 sliding claiber retaining bolts and rotate caliber out of mount and secure with wire, boungie cord, or rope to take weight of caliber brake hose. Remove old pads, install new, and reassemble in reverse order. Lugs on alloy wheel should be torgued to 95 foot lbs. Block front wheels, release parking brake,and do the back ones the same way. After completing, pump brake pedal slowly several times to seat new pads. If you move the MPV without pumping first, you will have no brakes to stop. If brake fluid level is high in master cylinder, you will need to take some out first to make room for returning fluid from caliber pistons being returned to their bores prior to any brake work. Rotors should be replaced or turned if scored or warped to have better clapping of pads to rotor surface.

Sounds like your brake calibers are sticking. Get new ones and new pads. You probably should get new rotors also because with the dragging calibers they most likely got hot and are warped. Search on ebay and www.rockauto.com . I personally use power stop drilled and slotted rotors with mid grade pads. You can probably get a whole kit.