The back brakes on my 98 bravada were wore out so i replaced them. then the back breaks started dragging . so i replaced both rear calipers and the back are not working but front are. the brake petal goes almost to floor.what is the problem?
Did you gravity bleed then pressure bleed? How much fluid did you get from the rear?
Check to make sure niether of the rear caliper hoses were kinked.
Let me know.
If all the above check OK, we need to move to the ABS module.
Regards,Did you gravity bleed then pressure bleed? How much fluid did you get from the rear?
Check to make sure niether of the rear caliper hoses were kinked.
Let me know.
If all the above check OK, we need to move to the ABS module.
Regards,
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Replace the calipers my friend. Corrosion on the caliper pistons is holding the brakes on causing the drag. That rubber boot over the piston doesn't seal from condensation and makes surface rust/corrosion and won't allow the pistons to release all pressure.
The following asumes only one wheel is hot and the e-brake is not engaged or possibly hung up from having been left on while the car was not driven for a while. Up north, BMW (Audi ?) brake disks tend to start rusting after about a week of inactivity. For a hung up e-brake, it is sometimes necessary to go back and forth to break the corrosion.
A hot wheel usually indicates that the brake pad is dragging (i.e. the brake caliper piston is not returning into the brake caliper bore).
A couple of checks: measure the brake disk temperature with a temperature gun on both brake disks of the same axle. If one is much higher, the caliper piston is probably sticking. Can also check for relatively large temperature difference with your hand-just do not touch the metal or you will get burned. Look at the brake disk for evidence of the outline of the brake pad that may have transferred to it indicating a very hot brake disk. Chock the car well, put into neutral with e-brake off, jack up "hot wheel" side and try to spin the tire. If a lot of drag, sticking caliper piston. Caliper replacement or disassembly for a thorough cleaning will probably be required. If this is necessary, you should do both brake disks and pads and consider doing both calipers on that axle depending on age and corrosion condition.
labor rates and pricing vary greatly town to town state to state. You best option would be to call around your local area to see what the going rate is for a standard rear brake service and a couple of rotors.
Typically the rear caliper slides freeze and the calipers need to be replaced.
You can expect from $200 to $800 dollars depending on what you actually need.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to help. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
I also have this problem on my 2000 Bravada - replaced all rotors and back calipers, brand new brake pads, new system and my rear caliper STILL chewed up a brand new brake pad in one week down to the metal. Checking for an emergency brake issue at this point - if anyone has any suggestions about how to unhook the E Brake, please share!
id bleed them first best if u have two people while u are doing this on ths caliper top the will be a bleeder valve have someone pump brakes and hold them down as u turn the bleeder after brake ped goes to the floor tighten bleeder up and have them pump brakes back up when u loosen bleeder u should here air come out if not u are fine go to next wheel do same on all for wheels
You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak. You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.
It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.
your inside pad wore out first do to a bad caliper or frozen slide or brake hose.remove brake hose off the caliper and see if you can turn the wheel.if you can replace hose and bleed caliper.if wheel still doesn't move buy a loaded caliper,this will come also with new slides!and then bleed
Just did my rear brakes this weekend, Monday had a very slight drag. Noted that when I installed new pads I had to tap them on. That shouldn't be. When brakes are released, there should be enough play to allow the pads to back off the disc. Tonight, I removed the pads and filed down the ends of the tips that go into the top and bottom channels until I could install and remove them with fingertips, that gives them enough play to grab and release. Drag disappeared; the old girl ran like she should.
Replace the flex line the rubber line between the car and the caliper. The inside of flex line can collapse making the back flow to release the caliper extremely slow. You can confirm the line is the problem by doing two tests. Pump the brakes up and undo the line at the caliper and it should release the caliper. Pump them up again and then undo the flex line at the steel line going to the master cylinder this should not change anything. Let me know if your findings are different and we can go from there. Mike
in what oder do you power bleed?
i bleed the calipers and all air is out . is there any thing else to try?
yes gravity bleed and then pressure bleed and check the hoses. the pedal still goes almost to floor then the front brackes catch.
there is fluid coming out back clipers but not any presure petal still goes almost to floor.
Did you gravity bleed then pressure bleed? How much fluid did you get from the rear?
Check to make sure niether of the rear caliper hoses were kinked.
Let me know.
If all the above check OK, we need to move to the ABS module.
Regards,
right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Im guessing air in the system. Were the rear calipers bleed?
Let me know.
Regards,
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