Car has been sitting for awhile--gas tank was less than 2 gallons-- put gas in car cranked right away but after idling for about 40 minutes died. car cranked back up and i drove it around the area for about 3 miles and put back in driveway and car died. recranked but ran for few seconds and died. repeated this process for 6 or 7 times and in each time it acted like car was running out of gas. I have fire and when gas in carb i get engine started but only runs short period of time. i suspect maybe fuel pump needs replacement but do not know where is located so i can remove and replace have been looking for any help in locating where the fuel pump is located.
Thanks everyone for the ideas. I decided to work the gas flow from the carburator backwards to the fuel tank and started with the cheapest first. Bought a can of gum out sprayed the carb real good worked the air intake valve and the choke and the linkage and got the car to run very smooth while idling however when placed in gear got rough idling so decided the carb was the problem so took off and cleaned up and replaced gaskets and car is now running as smooth as if brand new. did work myself and total cost $13.89 and about one and half hours of my time. Thanks everyone for the ideas. I decided to work the gas flow from the carburator backwards to the fuel tank and started with the cheapest first. Bought a can of gum out sprayed the carb real good worked the air intake valve and the choke and the linkage and got the car to run very smooth while idling however when placed in gear got rough idling so decided the carb was the problem so took off and cleaned up and replaced gaskets and car is now running as smooth as if brand new. did work myself and total cost $13.89 and about one and half hours of my time.
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There are several possibilities for this problem. A "cold start" sequence is suppose to activate based on water temperature and the signal from the water temperature sensor. This makes the fuel rich and adjusts timing to make the engine run better when cold. It works like a choke only it is electronic.
There may be 2 sensors with one making the dash gauges work and the other doing the engine controls. If not 2, then 1 sensor would do the whole job.
Another possibility is an air leak in the fuel system which makes the system bleed dry overnight. It is far less common on gas engines but happens a lot on diesels.
Some earlier Ford engines from 1984 to I don't know when they stopped on trucks, would use a step-up solenoid on the accelerator bracket that worked off water temperature. Sometimes a bad water thermostat would make the temperature controls malfunction the other way (High idle, clicking, low idle) that would stall and engine as the temperature vary.
I would change the oil, disconnect the coil or fuel pump and crank the engine for several minutes to let the oil pump work. Put a few gallons of fresh gas in the tank, and see what happens. You may have to run that gas out and then replace the fuel filter. If it starts ok, just let it idle for several minutes before you raise RPM. Listen for noises and see if the cooling system works. There is a chance you may have to change the trans fluid and filter after you try to drive it. And after driving a few miles, be sure and check the brakes and all of the engine hoses for leaks.
you may have to crank for awhile to purge the entire system of air. If that doesnt work you may want to check the fuel filter and fuel pump. If you ran the vehicle dry then all the junk that was sitting on the bottom of your fuel tank is now in your fuel filter and could have clogged it.
As gasoline sits idle for that length of time, it turns into shellac. this in turn plugs up the orifices in the carb, use a good quality carb cleaner, or fuel injector cleaner as the case maybe. follow the directions carefully. You may have to do this a couple of times. Good Luck
The idle relearn needs reset. Keep your foot on the gas at about 900 rpm. Make it idle for about 5-6 minutes. Slowly ease up on the gas until it will idle on it's own, it might take a while. After you get it to idle, it might be idling real low, but on its own, Let it sit and idle until for 20 minutes. After that it should be back to normal. You will have to do this every time you have the battery unhooked for a while.
If you have a 30 gallon tank this can happen on steeper hills. the sending unit holds the pump in a canister that holds about a quart of fuel. if the canister is not sitting in fuel it willnot **** it into the canister. when the fuel is used in the canister your car dies. pretty normal. hope this helps
First I would say less than a $1000 would have repaired your original issues,assuming there were several. How was it running and did the current problem start after all the work was done? Also, what you invested in money and parts ,I hope went to fix different issues.
Thanks everyone for the ideas. I decided to work the gas flow from the carburator backwards to the fuel tank and started with the cheapest first. Bought a can of gum out sprayed the carb real good worked the air intake valve and the choke and the linkage and got the car to run very smooth while idling however when placed in gear got rough idling so decided the carb was the problem so took off and cleaned up and replaced gaskets and car is now running as smooth as if brand new. did work myself and total cost $13.89 and about one and half hours of my time.
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