My 2010 ford escape rear hatch window leaks all the time.

As long as the gasket was put in the jointing services, it should not leak. You are better off replacing it. They are 20 bucks.

Either something shook loose and then regained connection, or your air filter became clogged with dust. Check your air filter.

Has the "cabin air filter" (interior air filter) ever been changed, or is it missing?

there is a bad door switch .
or rear hatch switch.
all you can do is detatch the switches one by one and hope to find the culpriet!!the rear hatch is most suspect... but dont rule out the drivers' door!
good luck.

Bad lock actuator: (NOTE: If your hatch is locked)
First remove rear panel- pull the plastic panel at the top center, until (2)clips pop off, then pop (2) more clips at the mid-center. Stick your arm down until you reach the lock, with your fingers, feel for the squishy plastic( inside is the bar that goes up to unlock), it is attached to the lever to unlock. Pull up the lever until you can open the hatch. There are four more clips at the top sides and middle sides, and four plastic screws at the bottom which is only accessible when the hatch is opened.
The lock is only sold as an assembly at $100.
Part Number #9L8Z-7843150 B

This is under warranty don't work on it you can void the powertrain warranty

Subject; 2006 Ford Escape

Re: dome light, door ajar lamp on dash, uncontrollable alarm activation. I just purchased the subject vehicle and did have problems with the factory (OEM ) alarm going off through the day and night. The first thing I did to fix the problem was; I removed all the door locks from each of the doors and disassembled them to ensure proper operation of the micro switches within each of the door locks. I also checked the hood trigger switch to ensure it was functioning correctly. I removed the plastic cover on the inside of the hatch to ensure proper function of the two door latches under it (one for the hatch the other for the glass). Still having the problems I originally had I decided my problem could be a bad ground to the frame. So I made another ground from a trigger switch to the chassis (frame). I made my ground connection above the headliner on the right rear of the vehicle. Raise the main rear hatch and pull the top section of the plastic corner post panel back, pull the headliner down to expose the multi pin connector going to the rear hatch wiring. In that bundle of wires is a black/White stripe wire. I soldered a wire to that wire and attached the other to ground. I would not suggest removing the locks from your doors or hatch, and oil/WD-40 won't work either. However high pressure air with carburetor cleaner seem to work best for me in making the door locks work smoother. Basically all the cleaner does is removed dirt and dust buildup from around the micro switch assembly within each door. You could potentially have a bad door lock to but can isolate them one by one. Good luck.

Tires will make some difference,but
not enough to be buying new ones,
to find out

You should buy a tire that is good in snow,
unless you live where you get none

No point in having 4 wheel drive, and a
summer Florida special on it,like you
get from the factory

Hi, have you used your vehicle off road, the ABS sensors behind each wheel do not function correctly if covered in mud etc - power wash behind each wheel to get rid of dirt etc, good luck.

We had the same problem with our 99 explorer there could be two seperate problems , problem # 1lock mechinism is very dirty from road dirt, take inside panel off and clean than spray with lubricant, problem # 2 bad lock actuator needs replacement ! good luck!!!!!