My car is jerking while moving and cant idle, can computerbox be the problem

Your accord is slipping out of gear..check it one more time..

The idle is set too high should be 600 r.p.m. not 1500to 2000,it,s trying to go if it's an automatic.

check around as some ECM units can be repaired but it is by professionals with the right equipment
Some shops sell reconditioned ECM units
start by asking a auto spares shop if they know of any one or check in the yellow pages

check that the turbo is fully operational ( variable vanes are free to move , actuator and vacuum hose are in good condition
the smoke is an indication that it is on on the job
the high idle may be from excess fuel and not enough air
and the rough idle and jerking indicates a air fuel ratio problem back again to the turbo
If you have fault codes run them and consider putting it on a chassis dyno for a full test of the pump and turbo

jerks when?

moving the shift lever. with hand?

moving car. in gear,name the gear, drive, L or reverse?

jerks from, 1 to 2nd gear, 2nd to 3? or ? (or when IT down shifts)

pretend we are blind (we are) and cant drive car,(hopeless) and

tell us exactly what works and dont work driving.

hot /cold engine, fast /slow/ accelerating/ decelerating, up hills and what gears.



if engine is hot, is your idle at 800 RPM parked, in park.

y/s

if not the idle controls are out of control and when you shift to drive

IT will jerk. this is an engine problem.

there are lots of other symptoms.

The first thing that needs to be done here is to have the engine control module scanned for fault codes, based on the results then move on.

It's the transmission sensor. I've had mine replaced three times now. You can fix it (see this thread: http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-forenza-reno-forum/35284-transmission-range-sensor-all-you-need.html) and please report it to Suzuki at 1-800-934-0934

Most cars rev on idle at around about 600 RPM and
750RPM and thats when you stop it stays at that rpm rate But if as you say yours trys to move then your problem is trying to still drive and not brake contact as what happens when you get at a stop lights etc the gear box should brake band stop which is like running free or in a manaul pushing in the clutch so your problem is in the GEARBOX..

You Think your mechanic did not Connect your distributor cables.

Most likely a dirty idle speed control system follow the guidelines below to clean it.

Throttle Body Cleaning on vehicles without electronic throttle control (most 2003 and down)

You can in most cases repair this slow speed stall or unstable idle by cleaning the engine throttle valve and the idle speed control valve using a product called CRC Spray Throttle valve cleaner. Spray the cleaner into the air intake of the engine with the hose removed from the throttle body, the engine will try to stall so hold up the idle speed manually. Once you have used up about 1/2 can of the cleaner stall the engine out while spraying and turn the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes and then reconnect and drive the car for a about 25 miles of varied driving modes. If this doesn't cure the problem you may need the fuel injectors professionally cleaned by the dealer service dept.