1998 Suzuki Esteem lost pressure and died while driving. Since then have changed battery, fuel pump and filter, and plugs. Was told plugs may not be of high enough quality to fire hot enough (?) or bad sensor. Any suggestions or solutions? Thanks! --Malissa

1.9 L F9Q I4 turbo-diesel( none in USA) DDIS
stalls. has many causes but lost diesel pressure.
fuel filters packed up. (even air filter too)
in your mind pretend filter 99 % packed up. see?
dont need Glow plug to drive a hot engine. start yes, and when warm engine they turn off. not needed now.
filters top my list for sure fuel
The F9x is the direct injected Diesel version and also features an 8-valve SOHC configuration.
high pressure injector pump or its regulator bad.
intermittent or weak pump.
so scanning the PCM finds not one DTC error.? buy scan tool
and scan it at stall?

Replace the fuel filter with a new one, see if it solves your problem, then I would have the fuel pressure tested to see if the fuel pump is faulty. Some times they will run, but won't hold enough pressure to run an engine at speed. Or you could just get a new pump and replace it, so at least you can rule it out as the culprit.

what engine? 1.6L SOHC or 1.8L DOHC, learn what motor you have before asking for help, and state it clearly.
You did this all backwards and guessing is very costly , im so sorry you didnt, ask how to trouble shoot this simple problem.
It is simple , no matter what is the fueling, EFI or carb.
What you failed to do is :
is if it is, flooding or staving for fuel?
Instant start will start both, for a short time. so is not telling you what failure you have.
I think the motor is good, (only you know that. or used a compression guage to learn that) but if it sounds good, with test fuel, then can assume it ok ( a very hands on concept that).
if the spark tips are all dry all 4 , not just 1. then its starving for fuel.
This engine has 4 INJECtors ON 1.6l AND 1.8.
they can, clog or leak. it takes careful testing to determine what they are doing and are well hidden, so you must learn to read spark tips. x4
Lets pretend that all 4 are dry.
I check fuel pressure and it good,
if not the the Fuel pressure regulator can be bad. (way cheaper that pump + hard labor)
The ecu cuts all fuel under 2 condition (software / features)
1: crash and burn, the ECU cuts fuel the moment it THINKS spark is lost.
2: while cranking it cuts fuel if spark is lost or the throttle is held at WOT, wide open throttle.
That mean you have to check 2 inputs to the ECU if all 4 injectors are
dead and fuel pressure is near 30psi.
those 2 inputs are.
1: TPS, throttle angle, not hear 4volts. (.5 to 1 is normal)
2: a dead tachmeter line. this is how the ECU sees if spark is good.
hint, spark can be 100% good and tacho is dead.
how this happens varies by unstated engine type.

most cars, with too low fuel in tank will stall.
the pump sucks air in the tank , the pressure drops to zero
and the EFI now injectos , yes, AIR.
cars dont run on AIR. only.
the tank pump is fuel lubricated and fuel cooled.
so you are killing the pump.
and inviting lots of rust to form on the the top of the tank.

these are all facts. now you can deal with full delt hand.

No SYMPTOMS stated, (sadly)
the J18 engines, twin cam, chain drive cam, nice motor.
an under stroked, J20. it is.. and share most parts.

alldata.com covers it.... and all cars... mostly.
for sure esteems (used books real off Ebay, if lucky, do a watch on ebay)?
and for sure Suzuki, the FSM is $4 to read. and posted 100 time here. (more ) this the real deal, (McCoy)
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1182-2000-esteem-service-manual.aspx

the filter, and pump , no need to replace pump unless
it has 12vdc to IT CRANKING< and filter is new. AND, pressure is out of spec. (see spec, below)
a gauge is $20 and way more easy to use than a bath in gasoline
for sure.and a $10 voltmeter from walfart.

now the Esteem secret (just in CASE)
"Remove rear seat cushion, rear right seat back, right side sill scuff, right front partition trim and right rear door opening trim."
bingo, a secret access port.

now the spec.
31-37 ?idle PSI
this is the fuel pressure at the rail, at idle.
cranking is 6 PSI more
driving up hill, wide open throttle, pressure rises to 3- 6psi more that idle. (near)
if pressure is low, check for 12vdc to pump, first.
then make sure the FPR works.
they can stick open closed or jam. and it must work right. or fueling will be ALL wrong. (cars this old FPR love to fail)
this engine ECU has program revision (flash) that causes
pump to not run key on, (read TSBs on same at suzuki...)

so, crank it and check pressure cranking if not starting?
or if it does start (you never said) then check at idle
and WOT. the PSI ( then gun throttle see pressure jump way higher) if all this pans out, forget pump, and FPR.

did you scan the PCM yet, that be like first..
all scan tools (real) work on 2000 cars.... all do.

Check / change the throttle position sensor yet?

Any check engine light /code to work with?


Did you change the fuel filter when you change the fuel pump.

Having good fuel pressure is a plus (yours seems a bit high but I don't have specs) What you need to find out is if the injectors are opening and putting the fuel into the engine so it can work. Are the plugs wet with fuel or dry? Does it fire up if you spray carb cleaner into the throttle body while cranking?

how can you tell if its the fuel pump is gone?

befor replacing the fuel pump check your sparking plugs , fuel nozzles they may be clogged

I have 1998 Maruti Esteem Automatic gear car - It works smoothly for 10-15 Kms and afterwards gear not shifting (may be getting heated inside somewhere?) - Recently I changed gear oil also. Any solution???