No codes when engine scanned. replaced crank sensor and ignition module still won't start.
SOURCE: Vehicle dies while driving down the road.
could it be the A/C pump kicking in. might be boging down the motor or electrical circuit, not letting the injectors get enough power. This could happen if the bearings are going bad in th A/C pump or there is a short in it. Just an idea. sounds like you have done the main components.
SOURCE: crank sensor
The crank sensor is behind the harmonic balancer. Not too hard to replace, the harmonic balancer is supposed to come right off but I needed a big 2-jaw puller to get it off.... accessed through the wheel well.
SOURCE: need directions on how to replace ignition wires
Set your new coil pack beside the old one under the hood. Be sure it's sitting the same way. Take the wires off one at a time, and put them on the new one. Then, remove the bolts and wire connection from the old coil pack, and hook them to the new, bolt it on. Then, simply remove the plug wires one at a time. Find a new wire that is closest to the length of the old one, and install it, and continue doing this until you have changed all six.
SOURCE: 1987 olds 88 with a 3.8 , will fire, backfires won't run
It takes less than an hour.
Removal & Installation
Exploded view of the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor mounting
To install:
SOURCE: My 88 olds cutlass supreme FWD will not start. I
If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery terminal (BAT) in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the on position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end at the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed. and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
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