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Re: Engine has no power
Have no idea what car you have, but, timing off, engine needs major tune-up, new air & fuel filters, spark plugs & wires, new distributor cap & rotor, fuel ijector cleaner in tank. coil might be faulty, trans mission fluid low, filter clogged, brakes binding, clutch slipping, cat converter clogged, pick your poison !
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In the old days the turbo would boost as soon as the engine speed was sufficiently high and any over pressure would be dumped by a relief valve or controlled by a wastegate.
In these modern times of electronics the turbo wastegate is normally open instead of normally closed so there is no automatic boost. The engine management system decides when there will be boost and how much boost there will be.
Turbo chargers are amazingly reliable unless they are abused or there has been foreign matter ingress. When looking for the cause of no boost it is wise to disconnect the intake trunking and turn the compressor vanes by hand to ensure all is well.
Disconnect the vacuum line to the wastegate servo and apply suction to the servo to ensure the servo, the linkage and wastegate is moving and in good order.
The next stage is to examine the vacuum line and connections back to source and then ensure the vacuum supply is adequate.
If all is found to be well with those physical checks the cause of no boost is either the failure of one of the vacuum switches (or the electrical wiring or connections to them) or a fault condition exists that has caused the engine management to decide not to provide turbo boost.
you need to check power to low pressure switch, that is on
the accumulator. If there is no power in there, then the problem is between the switch and
control panel.It is possible the
compressor clutch s bad.if there is power to the compressor and still
does not run then compressor clutch is bad.
Check fluid levels in your power steering/brake reservoirs and look for hydraulic fluid leaks in the power steering and brake lines. Could be a bad power steering pump too. Your owners manual should show positions of hydraulic reservoirs.
Have the car scanned for fault codes. A power loss in a turbo motor can be caused by simple vacuum leaks. You can check for loose piping and clamps. There are various components in that car that could cause such a problem. These include the turbocharger itself, the turbo boost (N75) valve, wastegate and its linkage, the car's ECU, maybe even a non turbo fault like a clogged catalytic converter or vehicle misfire.
I presume you experienced a loss of full power but had enough to get home. The check engine lamp came on too?
It seems your engine is in limp mode due to a possible over boost pressure . The ECU runs the engine with reduced power after an over boost is detected. If you cycle the ignition key and power comes back, this is most likely problem.
A fauliy N75 solenoid, with three small bore vacuum hoses and an electrical plug/connector, is possible cause .
This over boost can be caused by sticking vanes inside the turbo .
Have it scanned and read the codes. Code P0234 will be set if over boost occurred.
Hello! There are power steering fluid in/out hoses but no vacuum lines...It sounds as if the pump needs to be bled of air or the belt is loose...Belt should move about 1/2 to 3/4"...Bleeding is as follows... Guru...saailer
ImportantPower steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system
level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level
hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the
hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake
pedal with the engine OFF. This will discharge the hydro-boost
If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
2.1. Start the engine.2.2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.2.3. Turn the engine OFF.
Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground. Refer to
Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
in General Information.
Key on engine OFF, turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times.
Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification. Refer to
Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid
Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.
I have a 2000 3500 with a 6.5. The code 236 is - boost sensor #1 out of range. Usually it is not the sensor itself. In my case it was the vacuum pump had gone bad. No or low vacuum will cause the 236 code to set. Check for vacuum at the wastegate actuator. Disconnect the vac hose going to the diaphram actuator on the wastegate on the turbo and hook up a simple vac gauge with the engine running. Load the engine ( in gear- foot on the brake) If no vacuum check for kinked/broken vacuum line. If line is good you probably have a worn out vac pump. Rebuilt-$75-100. If you have vacuum and actuator doesnt move with change in engine loading then your wastgate/ actuator is bad- stuck or bad diaphram. My truck blew very thick black smoke even up a mild hill. After changing out the vac pump the power is back and no black smoke. Hope this helps you. Have a good one.