Did tune up on 89 caprice classic and now it want start

SOURCE: 1988 caprice classic turns over but wont start.

there are many things that could be wrong... evn though this caprice does not have points it does have a cap mounted coil that could be bad, also under neath the dist. is wuts called a pickup coil this coul also be bad. try a simple tune up first..plugs wires cap and rotor, new cap doesnt come with coil so you have to swap your old one into the new cap. getting a new coil wouldnt be to bad of an idea

SOURCE: 89 chevy caprice leaking gas from the front end

u probably have a leaking fuel line!find wich line is leaking and replace it

SOURCE: i got a 89 caprice classic its turning over but

check for proper connections, and ignition switch and make sure that the brushes in the starter are good

Ronny Bennett Sr.

• 6988 Answers
• Posted on Apr 06, 2010

SOURCE: MY 1995 BY CAPRICE CLASSIC WILL START BUT WON'T STAY RUNNING

The fuel pump is shorting out,replace the fuel pump in the tank to repair the problem.

Testimonial: "Thank you. the pump was the first change made. Perhaps it nedd to be rechecked. Will let you know how it turns out."

SOURCE: 1991 Caprice Classic.Fuel pump works but does not activate.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one or all of these systems to malfunction.

There is also the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor and ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition coil to the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.