My 91 k1500 4x4 stopped working hardly ever used it

did you turn the locks on the wheels, or check the fuses

Did you reverse more than 10 metres? Sounds like the hubs are locked into 4wd.this will work if you have auto hubs.but sometimes you have to turn the hub manually if they don't disengage.if you have gone some time or distance in 4wd

Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



• 2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



• 4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



• 4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



• 4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

Is anybody able to explain afew things about the non actuator front diff on some tritons? Tried to get a replacement from the wreckers and it doesn't have the pin to engage the front wheels? Wondering how it works and if I could still use it being that I have a normal diff aha, cheers

Your jeep should have full time four wheel drive. To place the transfer case in low range look down to the console towards the rear and you will see a "T" shaped handle. To place it into low range you should stop place the vehicle into park and lift the T handle and in the dash a 4X4 indicator lamp will light up. The traction button on the dash would be used in 4 wheel high mode when you start to experience wheel slippage upon take off from a stopped position. This will give you a little more control. You only need to use the low range for very slow speeds in mud or snow. Otherwise just leave it in high range because it is always using 4 wheel drive. This is a very reliable system which Jeep has refined over the years. Your Grand Cherokee is not designed fro hard core off road use. Hard core off road use will destroy the undercarriage. The Grand Cherokee is more of a luxury soccer mom 4X4 with good road manners, a comfortable ride, and good reliability.

YOU HAVE AIR IN THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.YOU NEED TO BLEED POWER STEERING PUMP FIRST BEFORE DRIVING VECHICLE.CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL ADD MORE POWER STEERING UNTIL REACH FULL COLD MARK..RAISE VECHICLE FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND.START ENGINE LET IT IDLE WHILE TURNING STEERING WHEEL LEFT TO RIGHT NON STOP DONT LOCK OR STOP STEERING WHEEL KEEP TURNING IT SEVERAL TIMES CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID IF LOW ADD UNTIL YOU GET COLD MARK ON DIP STICK DONT OVER FILL POWER STEERING PUMP BLOW A SEAL.IF POWER STEERING FLUID LOOK TAN COLOR SYSTEM FULL OF AIR.TURN OFF IGNITION LET CAR SET FOR A WHILE CHECK FLUID LEVEL.IF STEERING WHEEL FEEL STIFF HARD TURNING DONT DRIVE CAR UNTIL YOU HAVE NORMAL STEERING.IF STILL HAVE AIR IN SYSTEM BLEED SYSTEM UNTIL AIR IS OUT.

Before you start the vehicle lock the hubs in by turning the lock out device in the hub center of each front hub. Now you can start the vehicle and while in park or neutral move the range selector on the floor to the range you would like to use. Most often you will use the 4 wheel high setting. The low setting is only for extremely heavy pulling and will throw you across the seat if you accelerate too hard. Never exceed 45 miles per hour when in 4 wheel drive as you will burn out the transmission or 4X4 transfercase bearings. Now to go back to two wheel drive. Move the floor selecter back to 2 wheel drive setting. Do this with the vehicle in park or neutral to prevent damage to the vehicle. Now you can unlock the hubs by reversing the hub lock out device in the center of the two front hubs. Important little known fact is that you do not want to drive aroind with the hubs constantly locked in as you will lower your fuel mileage and cause extra wear to the axles and associated parts. Hope that helps, please come see us again if you have any more questions.

Before you start the vehicle lock the hubs in by turning the lock out device in the hub center of each front hub. Now you can start the vehicle and while in park or neutral move the range selector on the floor to the range you would like to use. Most often you will use the 4 wheel high setting. The low setting is only for extremely heavy pulling and will throw you across the seat if you accelerate too hard. Never exceed 45 miles per hour when in 4 wheel drive as you will burn out the transmission or 4X4 transfercase bearings. Now to go back to two wheel drive. Move the floor selecter back to 2 wheel drive setting. Do this with the vehicle in park or neutral to prevent damage to the vehicle. Now you can unlock the hubs by reversing the hub lock out device in the center of the two front hubs. Important little known fact is that you do not want to drive aroind with the hubs constantly locked in as you will lower your fuel mileage and cause extra wear to the axles and associated parts. Hope that helps, please come see us again if you have any more questions, Thanks, Rich.

Do you have manual locking hubs on the front? If you do, you have to turn them to 'lock' position. If you have automatic hubs, you skip that step. Never shift into 4x4 low range while moving. You must come to a complete stop to shift in or out of low range. Regular 4x4 (high range) can be engaged while you are moving. Let off the gas, and put it in 4x4 high range, do the same to go back to 2 wheel drive. Vehicles that are part time 4x4 (can be shifted in and out of 4x4) should never be driven in 4x4 while on a dry surface, as you can cause excessive wear or even failure of the system. So only use it in snow, off road, etc. Have a safe trip!

You have to have your front hubs locked in for four-wheel drive to work