Question about 2005 Toyota Corolla

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Can a vacuum leak from a brake booster cause squeaking noise

Seal between brake booster & master cylinder failed. Brake booster was replaced. Noise stopped but then brake fluid filled booster & brakes failed. Was the wrong part replaced.

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montehammons

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  • Toyota Master
  • 5,531 Answers

It's the master cylinder that needed replacing. Check if the booster will still be good after draining it.

Posted on Mar 03, 2013

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes after master cyclinder and booster replacment

To bleed the brake system open all the bleeders and let the system gravity bleed for @ 1/2 hour ensuring the master stays full. Then close all bleeders and starting furthest from the master (r/r) have someone pump the brakes 2-3 times,hold the pedal down, then open the bleeder,close the bleeder,and repeat untill there are no air bubbles and the brake fluid is running clear .Repeat for all wheels in this order R/R L/R R/F L/F ensuring master cykinder does not run empty. You cannot pump the pedal with a bleeder open you will be sucking air back into the system. Once you finish all wheels repeat to ensure there is no air remaining in system.

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

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Toyota Ed

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Toyota Sequoia power brake booster % master cylinder are bad

Mr. Clark:
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 toyota corolla low brake fluid

The fluid level will drop when the brake pads and or shoes wear thinner. A good way to check for a hydraulic fluid leak is Shut engine off step down on the brake pedal and hold it for 3 minutes. The pedal should not slowly drop. It will go down and hold.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

Elia Schamat

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: Brake pedal is sometimes sinking to floor. Brake

most likely your master cylinder is acting up try to press hard on your break for a period of time and see if the pedal will sink/replace master

Posted on Jan 13, 2010

JIMMY

  • 1374 Answers

SOURCE: Problem with Brake : it makes a hissing noise

Try the power booster. Sounds like the diaphram is leaking.

Posted on Jun 17, 2010

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02 Ford Explorer sporttrac xlt. New rotors calipers pads and master cylinder. Bled it twice stream looks good new fluid. One day breaks stick then the next no breaks Break light on Proportional valve?


For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?
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Apr 21, 2015 | 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

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Toyota 4 runner brake booster noise


if you can see brake fluid around the booster then yes it is most definitely not right, but sometimes these can fail without any fluid noticable, the visible fluid could mean that the brake master cylinder is failing & this will have an adverse affect on the booster power & performance, check your brake master cylinder first as this is a much simpler & easier repair than the brake booster & can be done at home on a flat drive or or street even, a Haynes manual is invaluable for the home mechanic & i recommend you get one as soon as you can as this will help you diagnose the problems with your vehicle before going to a mechanic/garage, if it is the brake booster at fault then i suggest you go to your local scrapper/breakers yard armed with tools & the Haynes/Chilton's Manual (Depending on which side of the pond you are from) & remove the brake booster from a now deceased Toyota 4Runner & remove the brake booster & master cylinder in one should only cost you a few Quid or Bucks & replace the part once your vehicle is back at home, once the parts have been replaced the brake system will need to be bled so that there is no air in the brake lines, this can be easily done with two people at home, Jack up one corner, remove that wheel & then just crack off the bleed nipple of the brake line Putting a bit of clear hose over the nipple to catch the excess brake fluid in a jug etc & have a friend push down slowly on the pedal, when only fluid comes out with no air then the system is bled for that wheel, Check the level in the brake master cylinder & repeat the process for the other 3 corners/wheels Once done your brake pedal should fell firm & Not spongy, If you get a spongy feeling when braking after this then there is still air in the brake lines & the system needs to be bled again, of course if you have done it right then your brakes should feel firm underfoot. Please don't forget to rate me, regards, Paul.

Sep 21, 2012 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

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When I start the truck, brake pedal goes down on it's own and will not come back up unless you pull it up , Booster?


The booster is working properly if the pedal goes down a little when starting the truck. Seems more like it's a master cylinder problem if it won't pump up.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Disconnect the warning indicator at the master cylinder 88289p00.jpg
Fig. 2: Remove the fluid to minimize the amount that would otherwise inevitably be spilled 88289p01.jpg
Fig. 3: Unscrew the line fittings at the master cylinder 88289p02.jpg
Fig. 4: Hold a rag under the fittings to keep fluid from dripping all over things 88289p03.jpg
Fig. 5: Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster 88289p04.jpg
Fig. 6: Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle and set it in a clean location 88289p05.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all the vacuum in the system.
  3. Detach and cap the brake lines from the master cylinder.
  4. If equipped, detach the brake warning indicator connector. NOTE: A turkey baster (tapered tube with a squeeze ball on top) works well for removing fluid from the reservoir (see photo).
  5. Siphon off the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to minimize spillage when lines are disconnected.
  6. If applicable, disconnect and cap the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) supply hose at the master cylinder reservoir and secure in a position to prevent loss of fluid.
  7. Unfasten the 2 nuts and lockwashers that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster.
  8. Remove the master cylinder from the booster by sliding it forward and upward from the vehicle. To install:
  9. Install a new seal in the groove in the master cylinder mounting face.
  10. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster pushrod and onto the 2 studs on the booster assembly.
  11. Install the retaining nuts, then tighten to 18–25 ft. lbs. (24–34 Nm).
  12. Uncap and connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. Tighten the front fitting to 16–21 ft. lbs. (21–29 Nm), and the rear fitting to 10–15 ft. lbs. (15–20 Nm).
  13. Uncap and connect the HCU hose to the master cylinder reservoir fitting and secure with a hose clamp.
  14. If equipped, connect the brake warning indicator.
  15. Fill the master cylinder with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Bleed the entire brake system, as outlined in this section.
  16. Connect the negative battery cable.
  17. Operate the brake several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.
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Aug 03, 2010 | 1992 Ford F350

2 Answers

When i step on my brakes u hear a loud air noise and they are hard to stop


You need to replace the pads or u have a hose or line busted which immediatly needs to be replaced.Hope this helps and Thank You for asking.

Jul 19, 2010 | 1994 GMC Jimmy

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

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My 1994 buick lesabre's brakes will not work. I have low brake fluid and the brake pads were just replaced. My friend said that there was brake fluid leaking from the car and that I might need a master...


if you can see a good amount of wet brake fluid between the brake master cylinder and the brake booster. and you have been adding fliud often,you could have a bad master cylinder. it has to be replaced not rebuilt. you however may have a far more common problem, a rusted through brake line.have someone pump the brake pedal, than look under the car for a brake fluid leak ,repair as needed. than bleed the brakes for a good hard brake pedal
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