2000 Chrysler Cirrus Logo
Posted on Mar 03, 2013
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My 2000 chrysler cirrus just dies without warning and sometimes the oil light will come on when at idle under 1000 rpm

This car just cuts off at random times with no warning. The oil light comes on when i am at less then 1000 rpms. It will start after letting it sit for a few minutes, but then sometimes it does it again. Have been using it for a while with no problem and then it just died while driving at 50 miles an hour.

  • wd neojoneswd
    wd neojoneswd Oct 06, 2017

    I talked to a parts guy said it was either crank sensor or cam sensor and I just had a new distributor in so cam sensor was good. changed crank sensor but did not fix it? now looking at fuel pump or filter assembly. no codes. other people changed the crank sensor and it worked for them?

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1 Answer

Bogdan Odwazny

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  • Chrysler Master 6,171 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2013
Bogdan Odwazny
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Joined: Jan 20, 2013
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Check crankshaft sensor.

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 30, 2008

SOURCE: Oil light comes on and "bings" when the tack shows 1000 rpm.

I have no idea how many miles are on the van but 1st lets talk about the oil lite, it is telling u that the engine has less than 10 PSI of oil pressure, this may be the pressure sending unit on the engine is defective, if it does have low oil pressure then severe damage to the engine bearings can result, the click is most likely the contacts in the starter solenoid are burnt, they act up more cold and give the click you hear. I have no idea about the steering issue, without hearing it is almost imposs to diagnose such concerns. In closing I highly recommned that you address the low oil pressure concern ASAP

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 09, 2008

SOURCE: 1999 chrysler 300m stalls when coming to stop and low power

Change the Cam Position Sensor.. It done the same thing on mine. The sensor runs about
40. to 60.00 at most parts stores Your gonna have to take off the upper intake or plenum to
get access to it. Top of the engine right side, you'll see it

Anonymous

  • 43 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 27, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 Sebring -Odometer Lights Flicker then bing battery indicator

have the engine wire harness checked maybe a communication problem between modules.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2009

SOURCE: Our Chrysler Cirrus 2000, developed a very rough idle.

Mine is doing the same thing. My check engine light did finally come on and when a reader was put on it the code is P0505 on the reader. When I looked that up it said "Idle air control system". I phoned my mechanic and he said to bring it in next week before it turns into a more serious problem. So far it hasn't stalled, but it makes me nervous. I am on oxygen, so I don't want to get stuck somewhere if it breaks down. So it will be going in for sure.
Hope it isn't expensive as I am on disability.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 30, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 Chrsler Sebring LXi v6 2.5L. Car dies.

I had the same problem with my 1999 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6 Convertable. It started stalling at intersections; would lose RPMs' and die while driving it; and would not start unless it sat for a few minutes. Once it started, you'd have the scenario start all over again...

I hadn't kept up my maintenance schedule like I usually do, so I did the usual; I replaced my spark plugs and wires, changed the oil and filters, ect...

Finally, after it doing the same thing and wasting a ton of time and frustration on the side of the road, I took it to a mechanic that put it on his $9,000 diagnostic machine. The verdict; CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR!

The Haynes Manual will tell you wrong on its location for the 1999 Lxi 2.5L V6 convertable; it is NOT LOCATED BEHIND THE BATTERY TRAY. The crankshaft position sensor is actually located about 4 to 6 inches below the distributor, which is about dead center of the motor, on the transaxle housing.

You do have to take off the tire and the skirt cover to get to it. I had to purchase two long socket extensions just to get to the bolt that mounts the sensor to the transaxle housing; but it was well worth the 20 bucks...

All in all, it took me three hours to find the damn thing, and then to figure out what I needed to take the old one off and get the new one installed.

The $65 dollars that I spent to find out what the problem was is worth it....

Now, the car runs better than ever....

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