The starter sometimes get below 11.9Volts dc. from the Ignitioon supply.If I run a direct to the starter the engine will crank.Ocnce it starts it will start again if I try. The alternator is working and charging at 14.07 Volts dc and the battery will read 12.76 if left to stand after charging. But if I leave the car for perhaps a couple hours it may start from the key switch or it may notI would like an electric schematic for a Nissan B13 sentra with a cd17 engine to better troubleshoot the problem from the Keyswitchto the starter
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You check the relay out for the starter also did you try to trip the solenoid on the firewall to see if it cranks from that just to eliminate because if it cranks from tripping the solenoid and what you stated you replaced is new and not used I would say in the ignition but if you replaced with used parts good chance could be a bad starter unless it was tested as well as solenoid it can be a dud
couple things come to mind: bad cable or starter has a dead spot. if it starts after hitting the starter with a hammer, you have a dead spot and need to replace the starter. If not, check both battery cables--the ground one that goes to the engine and the positive one that goes to the starter. Sometimes they go bad under the insulation. Could also be an intermittent ignition switch issue. A second test you can do to narrow down the possibilities is to put power directly to the starter solenoid (usually done by carefully crossing the big battery terminal on the solenoid with the small terminal where the ignition switch wire connects using a screwdriver), but make sure the tranny is in park or neutral. If the starter cranks, you know it is a problem with the ignition power not getting to the solenoid and not a bad battery cable.
Intermittent electrical problems are the worst to diagnose. One thing you have not replaced yet is the key switch. I would run a wire to the starter solenoid terminal that has the wire from the key switch and have a meter ready for the next time it fails to crank. If you have no voltage on that terminal it may be the key switch. You can also jumper that wire to battery power to see if it will crank by putting power directly to the starter solenoid. I am assuming the security light is not on when the problem occurs.
A starter under load demands a lot of current and what you describe indicates something intermittently deprives the starter of current preventing it from working as it should.
A guy once brought me a car with a similar problem that had been in half the repairers in town and had cost a fortune with no result. The fault turned out to be a bad/dirty connection inside the crimp between the battery cable and the battery terminal. There was no external evidence of this and it was only possible to see what had happened after sectioning it with a hacksaw.
Often it is the ground connections or leads that cause problems but this time it was the supply.
Monitoring the voltages (under load) is the key to a diagnosis. Checking for volt drops along individual leads, cranking for 10 seconds with the ignition disabled and checking for connections that become hot...
The component is a
starter. When you insert your key into theignition and turn it, you switch on the power to the coil and vehicle
computers. By turning the key to the start position it will supply power to the
starter and solenoid which cranks the engine until you release the key allowing
to return to the ignition on position.If the battery is weak the starter solenoid may engage producing a
clicking sound, but it will not crank the engine. Another test is to turn on
the dome light and try to start the vehicle, if you see the dome light dim when
you are trying to start the car the battery is weak or the starter has a short.
Starters are temperamental at times and can be intermittent working sometimesand malfunction other times. Your ignition
switch, fuse, or relay could also produce symptoms of your vehicle not