My 95 nissan pickup has light issues. I can't seem to figure out what causing the night not to work I have tested the fuse block and all leads into the illumination control switch but don't know where

on older nissans dashoard and tail light is on same fuse. can you please check fuses on drivers side under your steering wheel? check #16.

Actually, there is no such thing as a "fuse problem". Please read this article: Where's The Fuse?

Then to answer your question: It does sound like you have lost power (or ground) to your Intrument panel cluster (IPC) (actually, Nissan calls it a "Combination Meter"). There MAY be a blown fuse involved, but then again, maybe not. If there is a blown fuse, you need to find out WHY.
I personally would recommend scanning the computer network in your vehicle to check for possible Diagnostic Test Codes (DTCs) that may lead you to the failing circuit and give you a starting point for diagnostics. You would then diagnose the problem according to the troubleshooting charts for the DTC. If there are no DTCs present, then you should test all of the power and ground circuits to the IPC.

There are three fuses to the IPC or Combination Meter. They are all 10 Amp fuses and are all located in the fuse block under the left side of the dash. They are fuses #6, #14, and #19.

Should be a fuse for either side headlight

sounds like the blinker switch on the steering column has gone bad,thx

if you have an volt meter capable of reading amperage you can check for a draw fairly easily.

Turn off the vehicle, remove the key, unplug any accessories from the 12 volt (cigarette) outlets, and disable the under hood light if equipped.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Install your amp meter in series, one lead on the negative terminal of the battery and one lead on the negative terminal of the battery cable. You should see less than .050 amps. It may take up to 20 minutes for everything to power down so don't worry if you see more right away.

If after 20 minutes it does not drop lower than .050 amps you have a draw. You can start removing fuses from the underhood fuse block one at a time. If the draw goes away than you have just narrowed down the possibilities to that circuit. Post what fuse you pulled and I can help you further.

If none of those fuses cancel the draw remove one of the test leads. Open the drivers front door and remove the courtesy lamp fuse from the instrument panel fuse block located behind the access panel on the end of the left side of the dash. Reinstall test leads and then start removing those fuses one at a time.

Some common draws are aftermarket stereos, glove box lights, visor mirror lights,

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

First check fuses. Also if you have installed an aftermarket cd player recheck your wiring, i had this same problem about 10 yrs ago just can't remember exactly what it was.

I would start by checking all the fuses, then check the headlight switch,test it for power as you did the tail light, then check the wiring coming out of the cab down the frame to the rear of bed check for a short but if all fuses are good then will not be a short, may be a bad switch and the most important is the bulbs, make sure they are good.

The way I track down battery drains is by disonnecting the negative battery cable and connecting a 12volt test light between the negative cable end and the negative post. If there isn't a drain then the tiny test light should be off. [with all the doors shut, lights off, and ignition key out] If the light is bright or glows even a tiny bit then you have a drain. A more sophisticated version of this test is to use a digital multimeter in place of the test light. Anything over about 50 miliamperes [.050 amps] of drain is too much, Your Nissan will probably have 20 or less miliamperes of drain if all is well. If you do have a drain then start with the simple things. Make sure the dome light and all other small lights are going off when the door is shut. If they are then I start pulling fuses one by one until I find the one that turns out the little light or reduces the miliampere reading to normal and then see what that fuse powers. Always be carefull when working around batteries and wear eye protection. It's rare but I have seen an alternator with bad diodes cause a similar drain. Disconnecting the alternator leads in this case should also cause the light to go out if it is the cause. Aftermarket radios, CD players, and auto starts can also be a source of drains.

It seems like you have a bad ground wire or a short.

CHECK FOR LOOSE IGNITION SWITCH BEHIND THE KEY YOU MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE SCREWWS HOLDING THE STERRING COLUMN COVER ON, ALSO OTHER THINGS IT COULD BE WOULD BE YOUR NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH OR THE STARTER RELAY AND FINALLY THE STARTER? YOU WOULD NEED A TEST LIGHT TO DIAGNOSIS? ONE THING YOU COULD TYR IS REMOVING FUSE/RELAY COVER UNDER HOOD AND SWAPPING THE STARTER RELAY WITH A SIMILAR ONE IN THE BOX ? IF IT STARTS THEN THE RELAY IS BAD ? GOOD LUCK