I was going home from work my truck started to make a poping noise and it stopped moving. I was able to turn a corner, but it wont go anywhere. I automatically thought about the rear end because it's a common problem but the rear wheels still move. So now I'm stumped. It's 2wd with push button 4x4
First and foremost you need to see if the driveshaft is in place. Next lift preferable the hole rear of vehicle so that the rear wheels are off the ground and see if wheels turn in either drive or reverse, if they turn in either diretion, now see if the vehicle will ove in reverse on the ground. If the wheels did not turn in the air - check too see if the driveshaft is turning. If driveshaft turns automatic transmission is O K, if not transmissionis the problem. If vehicle moves in reverse - the forward clutch in the transmission is your problem and trans will need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Drive shaft might of snapped or your u joints on the shaft
SOURCE: 1994 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 push button type
small sylinoid on the top of the transfer case needs replaced. easy to do. it has three vacumelines going to it just trun out and replace like a bolt.
SOURCE: 2000 s10 clunking sound from rear end
Normally the axle does have some end play. A bad bearing usually will give you rumbling noise and have up and down play if it's bad enough.Normally the seal will leak as well. Before you begin taking everything apart, get under there and put your hand on the axle tube nearest the brakes and try to feel where the noise is coming from while someone moves the bed. Listen carefully as well and check anything and everything for movement. The "hand on it" method will allow you to feel as well as hear the shift. I'm almost betting it's not the bearing.
SOURCE: when i put my 03 chevy 4x4 in 4 wheel drive there
you may have a broken transfer box or a damaged locking hub on the wheels that arent used in 4x4 mode, i.e. if your car is FWD unless its in 4-low, check the rear locking hubs for failure. Other wise it sounds like a transmission fault in the aforementioned transfer box or differential.
SOURCE: 01 suburban 4x4 wont work.
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12
volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it
conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the
front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the
front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it
does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power
feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated
by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift
fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the
passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a
heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer,
and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at
most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for
about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.
Good luck, That actuator is usually the problem 90% of time.
SOURCE: 2000 chevy silverado 4x4 rear end noise
I would think there is a problem with the tranfer case. I would check the fluid level in the rearend and address the leak.
161 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×