This is the issues that have lead up to posting this 1st Time Parked car put ignition in ACC to listen to radio while waiting. Heard an electrical pop sound through stereo system. Everything electrical went dead, tried to start car all in dash warning lights came on as normal when turning key but everything including warning lights went dead when turning key. Tried a few times but did the same thing. When you turned the key everything went silent and no response when turned. Waited a few minutes tried starting the car and it restarted. Car ran fine with no issues. Next time a few weeks later Started car after it sat over night car started normal but after 2-3 seconds loss of power and sounded as if misfiring. Aprox 30 seconds later check engine light and warning buzzer sounded. Turned car off waited a minute or longer restarted car ran normal. Ran code diagnostics but no code showed. System passed car has run normal since then This time Came back from store turned car off. Came back about hour later (night time) interior lights came on. Turned key headlights came on when turned key everything went dead. No interior or exterior lights, everything electrical is dead and key is stuck in ignition. Unable to shift out of park. About two or three months had electrical system tested everything passed but needed to replace factory battery. Summer 2012 had an after market stereo system professionally installed. Components included new head unit, amp, preamp subwoofer, front and rear after market speakers. In addition installed required adapters and adapter for keeping steering controls for radio. This is the only modifications performed on the car. Car has been properly maintained following manufacture maintenance recommendations on normal intervals. Any suggestions what to check or what might be the problem? Is there any way to bypass the ignition to remove the key? Is there any way to get the car into neutral to load onto a car dolly to self tow to repair shop? Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help given.
I would go to the positive terminal on the battery anjd check for black hard build up on the post and inside the terminal. This is lead sulphate and cause a high resistance to any high current flow. Clean both with sand paper until shiny and refit and tension properly. Do the negative also as it will have build up but to a lesser degree. If the battery lead runs through a connection box Check for tight connections there also. As to towing most towers have a wheel rack that fits under the tyres and lifts them clear of the road so it can be taken to to a shop.
SOURCE: car won't start
Your fuel pump is sticking and not pumping, this is common if you run the fuel down to less than 1/4 full, the fuel pump needs the gas to cool itself, below a 1/4 tank the pump is not getting cooled and after repeatably running low on fuel it overheats and fails. Running the car near 1/2 tank extends the pump life to many years more than running tank below a 1/4 full..
SOURCE: Car started jumping but had 1/2 tank and battery light came on.
Not at all, this could be many different problems, from the coil pack to a sensor, take it to autozone and have them do a trouble code on it, it will tell them exactly what is going on.
SOURCE: 2001 Suburban electrical. 100k. Intermittant elec. power?
it may sound like you have a faulty batterie. it could be a short cut inside it that come and goes. Try another battry. Good luck!
SOURCE: Key stuck, won't turn, won't shift...replace ignition switch?
Try to shift your key in either direction while try to turn your steering in left and right direction. May be its steering lock which is attached to your ignition key preventing shifting of key. If not, then its obviously your ignition that has gone.
If you decide to change ignition then as a last try Dip your key in lubricating oil and then insert in ignition to turn it on. May be it can help.
SOURCE: in park the engine dies; only will run if given gas
It sounds like there is a problem with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Its job is to open and let air into the manifold when the throttle is closed at idle. If it does not open, the engine dies at idle. The IAC is mounted on the throttle body. Possibly the valve is clogged or stuck, in which case it could be ok again if it is removed and cleaned. Or it is broken, and needs to be replaced. Or, there is a problem with its electrical connection, that needs to be traced. Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.
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Moved some things in trunk and got power back and car started. Drove around the block and parked car came out 10 minutes later electrical system dead.
Checked battery found the ground clamp was never tightened after the new after market stereo was installed. I tightened the terminal and drove the car today with several stops. Each time the car started without any problem I will update this post in a week or longer when I find out if this corrected the problem.
This did solve the problem and not had any issues since the first posting.
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