Question about 1999 Volvo S70

1 Answer

Trying to time the cams shafts to the belt pullys there no notches only 3 bolt holes

I no how to time belts to motor but not pully to cam shaft thanks

Posted by richard on

Ad

1 Answer

swede760

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

    Champion:

    An expert who has answered 200 questions.

  • Volvo Expert
  • 496 Answers

You really need the Cam Tool that holds the Cams in place from the opposite end of the head as the Pulleys. There is also a Tool to hold the Cam Pulleys as well. IPD sells it for near $280 and that also includes the guides for the Cam Cover and a set up to evenly press the cam cover in place. The Cams will have a groove where the tool holds them and you will need to find out how they are supposed to be set. Just be happy you are not dealing with a Variable Cam Timing set up.

Posted on Jan 28, 2015

Ad

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Volvo 740 Wagon w/o Turbo: Timing Belt Needs Replaced

It is a right hand thread and you usually need an impact gun. Take the fan out of the way, to give you more room, I have found that helps.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

Ad
steve_e_uk

steve morris

  • 1675 Answers

SOURCE: I replaced the cam shaft

need to know what model, year, engine size and engine number...there are hundreds of volvos and not giving this information will not help..thanks

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

jturcotte

Jeffrey Turcotte

  • 8984 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 2.4l turbo timing marks see marks on cam

everything is at 12 o'clock. see diagram from autozone.com

1515ac4.gif

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

Mackmech11

Josh

  • 122 Answers

SOURCE: ive been trying to set

It is possible to set the timing wrong....if the belt broke well running I believe this is an interference motor..meaning if the timing is off the cylinder can move up and smack a Valve being exhaust or intake. which means a valve can break or bend cause lack of seal thus no compression. When setting the timing you want to align your marks with Cylinder # 1 it needs to be on the compression stroke..you can do this by removing cyl 1 spark plug and rotating the crankshaft with your finger over the spark plug hole you will feel air press against your finger meaning all valves are closed and your in compression stroke. Then line up your marks and you should have it...I would consider purchasing a compression tester to make sure no damage to the cylinder head....good luck hope this helps

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

clifford224

Clifford Beard

  • 1975 Answers

SOURCE: I need a Cam shaft and timing belt diagram for

Hope this helps.....

11_4_2011_11_19_08_am.jpg11_4_2011_11_19_31_am.jpg

11_4_2011_11_19_55_am.jpg
11_4_2011_11_20_19_am.jpg

11_4_2011_11_20_50_am.jpg


11_4_2011_11_21_16_am.jpg

11_4_2011_11_22_01_am.jpg

11_4_2011_11_22_42_am.jpg

Posted on Nov 04, 2011

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What mark on the cam shaft/oil pump should be used to reset timing


If you can't find any information you may have to do it from scratch. Find tdc on crankshaft, find point where opposite cylinder to number 1 (cylinder 4 on inline 4 engine) is 'rocking' ( exhaust closing, inlet opening) at this point you are close, and should be able to find the correct mark. (probably need valve cover off to see cam and valves moving as you carefully turn camshaft) some engines have a balance shaft driven behind the oil pump. If so there will be marks to line up there too. Can be tricky, eg mitsubishi motor, just lining up oil pump mark may not be right, it's not a direct drive to balance shaft. A pin has to be able to insert into a bolt hole on the side of the block, so maybe have to turn oil pump gear up to 3 times to get right position. Sorry not familiar with your motor.

Jun 24, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 ford ranger timing marks 2.5


One is on the crank shaft pully (for TDC). It is a line, scribed on the pully, that alligns to a pointer on the plastic timing belt cover. The second is on the cam shaft pully. It can be accessed by removing the rubber inspection plug on the timing belt cover. The third is on the auxillary shaft (oil pump) and is also accessed through an inspection plug on the timing belt cover.

On the cam and oil pump pullies, the diamond aligns to the diamond and the triangle aligns to the triangle (the pullies have both). These should be perfectly aligned when the crankshaft pully line is at 0 deg TDC. If you can't see the marks through the inspection port while the crank is at 0 TDC, you are 180 degrees out - turn the crank one more time. 

Sep 12, 2010 | 1999 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

How do i time my Golf 1 correctly? it consumes a lot


its tricky enough if your not sure what your doing but ill run you through it. 1. remove top rocker cover and timing belt cover. 2 make up the position of the pully on the cam shaft at the top and the drive shaft at the bottom, this marks are you fail safe incase you cant time the engine. 3 remove the timing belt and pully tentioner, note if your going this far you are as well to replace the timing belt,tentioner and water pump. 4 On the cam shaft at the top if you force them to turn you will see a small indicator mark on the shaft this mark has to line up with the other indicator mark on the housing between the cam shaft and the cam shaft pully, once they line up your top end is timed, mark up the pully incase it moves. 5 on the drive shaft pully there is also markings that have to line up but you can also feel the position of the pully as you turn it, you will feel the piston been forced up and it is timed at top dead centre on cylinder one, which means the the piston has to be at the top just before the point of returning back down, using your feeling as a guide and the markings lined up you will have timing. also mark up this pully, your new marking should be very very close to the fail safe markings you put on at the start. when you have your marking replace the timing belt with the longest distance between pully contact going on first, try not disturb your timing or your hard work will have been for nothing, make sure the tentioner on the belt is tight but not to tight to the point where you ll stretch the belt or snap it, put everything back as you found it and crank the engine, job done, best of luck. hope this helps( rate me on my answer thanks )

Aug 27, 2010 | 2000 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

View of mark for timing belt.


hi from uk the cambelt/timing belt comes as a kit ie timing belt and tensioner cost £50 here in uk ? it is not too difficult diy job approx 2hours the engine must 1st be set to TDC number 1 firing then at this setting the cam cog mark is a hole drilling in the web of cog and should line up at 12 oclock upwards and using a mirror look thro drill hole and you will see a vertical notch/groove behind on font engineface this is correct mark the crank cog mark lines up with aother mark on engine front face at approx 12 30 pm oclock ? if now set you slacken tensioner bolts and push t/pully away to left from belt ? then remove belt next remove complete tensioner assy after undoing bolts then fit new tensioner push t/pully to left from belt run and lock bolt/s recheck t/marks then fit new belt from c/shaft in anticlockwise rotation when fitted release tensioner bolt and allow to tension belt push t/pully onto belt and lock up tensioner bolts20=27 Nm rotate engine manually for four turns then recheck marks ? should still aligne then re assemble torque crank bolt to =140-150 Nm A LITTLE HINT ? b4 you remove the water pump belt ? slacken thefour 10 mm headed bolts (spanner size) that secure w/pump pully to pump it will be easier to halt rotation of pully if you holt belt tight by hand this pully has to come off to remove c/belt covers same for power steer belt which is also driven from the w/pump pully the power steer pump slide adjuster has a 12 mm bolt you slacken and best done with open end spanner ? after slackening the pump mounting bolts/nuts underneath pump hope you can follow this info/tips wish you good luck from uk

Apr 09, 2010 | 2000 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

I need the timing marks foe a 1999 elantra 1.8


hi from uk the cambelt timing marks at TDC are as follows--the crank gear mark is lined up with mark on front of engineblock at approx 10-30 am position the marks are clear as you look ? the cam coghas a dot/pop mark just below teeth this mark is at top ie 12-0'clock position now on cam cog you will also see s hole drilledon the cog web also at 12-o/clock if you look thro this hole (use a mirror ?) the hole lines up to a grooved vertical line at the rear which is on front of engine at this point you fit belt fron crank pully anti clockwise round cam cig then reset tensioner when marks are rechecked with belt fitted/tensioned ? turn engine manually two full rotations clockwise then recheck all mark line up again ? then re assemble ? c/shaft pully bolt tightens to=170-180 Nm hope you notice that the new belt is marked as to its rotation with arrows hope this helps ?best wishes from uk

Mar 11, 2010 | Hyundai Motor 1999 Elantra

1 Answer

How to set timing marks when changing the timing belt 1995 kia sportage 2.0liter


There is a DOHC or SOHC (double or Single overhead cam engone. Both are Similar. Both have a notch on back side of crank pully that aligns with a tab on engine just above crank pully looks like a triangle with the tip near crank pully is rounded off. SOHC engines have an arrow on cam pully that aligns with a point at top of timing belt rear housing. about straight up at top of it. DOHC have an I and an E on the cam pullys I for INTAKE and E for EXHAUST. the I and E match up at same type points on top of rear Timing belt housing. When installing belt make sure you do not move pullys. put belt on starting with cam shaft (s) then down to crank on tension side which looking at motor will be the right side or Clockwise direction keeping it tight no, or EXTREEMLY little slack. then back up around tensioner. Tensioner should be the last pully to go around. Once on make sure timing marks still lline up.Adjust tensioner and. rotate engine BY HAND 4 times and re check marks.

Oct 09, 2009 | 1995 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Hondai sonota


Which engine? 4 cylinder (2.4 lit) or V6 (2.7 lit)? Two different procedures as well as different belts. The 4 cylinder also has a balance belt. See next image:
42e8a57.jpg
Here's the 2.7 V6 belt:

44efb27.jpg
The replacement procedure is nearly the same at the start (removing, accy drive belts, pullys, support engine & remove front engine mount, remove T.B covers, disconnect Cam Position Sensor & Crank Position Sensor connectors, etc.). When you get to this point on the V6, you also have to remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the engine (4 14mm bolts, also a 12mm bolt which bolts the dipstick tube to the side of it) Put crank shaft at TDC (top dead center w/ALL timing marks aligned) remove hydraulic tensioner (2 12 mm bolts), then remove the belt. You'll need to recompress the hydraulic (auto) tensioner in a vise and insert a retaining pin through the pin-holes at the top (through the tensioner piston) to keep it compressed when you reinstall it. Otherwise, you won't be able to install it. Assembly is reverse order of dissassembly. Inspect your pullys while you're in there (check for pully bearing noise, leaking grease, smooth rotation, also the water pump pully, etc.) Replace components as needed. Careful not to damage Crankshaft Position Sensor wire harness.

The 4 Cylinder is quite different. You not only change the timing belt, but also the countershaft (balance) belt, which is behind the crank position sensor blade. IMPORTANT: ALL TIMING MARKS ALIGNED BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING) There are two (2) counter-shafts (balance shafts). one driven by the timing belt, the other by the crankshaft sprocket behind the timing belt sprocket at the front of the crankshaft.
70f048d.jpg1999205.jpg366ecea.jpg b8013a3.jpg

Jun 02, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

Timing belt replacement


hi mate
if you look on the front of the engine under the starter there is a small hole, (you can use a 5mm allan key in this hole to lock the crank) place allan key in the hole and hold it against the fly wheel while you turn the engine over in a clockwise direction by hand when the pin drops in you need to check that the hole in the cam shaft lines up with the hole in the head (should be about 4 o clock on the pully) and the 2 holes on the injection pump pully line up with the holes in the injection pump. (if these dont line up you will need to remove the allan key and turn the engine clockwise 90 degrees)
once all the the holes are lined up and the allak key is inserted into the flywheel, insert 3 m8 (13mm headed) bolts in to the hole on the cam pully and the 2 on injection pully. with all thes done your engine will be timed up and wont slip when refitting new belt.

Apr 16, 2009 | Peugeot 405 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi ive got a daewoo espero the cam belt has come off ive got a new one to put on but need the too time marking s to put the cam belt in right please can you help the model i have a put down isnt my car its...


Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Nov 25, 2008 | Daewoo Leganza Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Need to set timing on a 88 subaru 1.8 liter


The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

Jul 21, 2008 | 1984 Subaru Gl

Not finding what you are looking for?
1999 Volvo S70 Logo

Related Topics:

93 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Volvo Experts

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22485 Answers

Jeffrey Turcotte
Jeffrey Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8984 Answers

Are you a Volvo Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...