Grinding or rattle when in drive goes away when in park
Probably a heat shield on the exhaust system, probably on the converter.. depending how bad it is it could be tack welded
when i have this problem i normally just take them off
Testimonial: "Thanks for the IAC valve fix solution will give it a try."
code 35 is the IAC valve, Here's how to clean the IAC valve: Disconnect the air intake ductwork from the throttle body. Start the engine, then increase and hold the idle speed to 1,000 to 1,500 rpm. Spray the throttle cleaner or engine cleaner into the throat of the throttle body, aiming for the idle air bypass port (usually located on the side or top of the throttle body opening). Give this area a good dose of cleaner (about 10 second's worth). Turn the engine off to allow the cleaner to soak into the IAC passageway. Wait about three minutes. Restart the engine, rev and hold at 1,000 to 1,500 rpm, and repeat the cleaning process again. Turn the engine off again, and reattach the air intake ductwork to the throttle body. Start the engine and rev and hold to 1,500 to 2,000 rpm until no white smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe. If this fails to make any difference, you can remove the IAC valve from the throttle body and spray cleaner directly on the tip of the valve and/or into the ports in the throttle body. Let the cleaner soak awhile, repeat as needed, then reinstall the IAC valve, start the engine and run it at 1,500 to 2,000 rpm as before until no white smoke is seen in the exahust. If the idle speed still surges after this, the IAC valve is defective and needs to be replaced.. yea, the heat shield on the catalytic converter is likely loose
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SOURCE: rattle noise at 1200 rpm on 2006 silverado
Most likely the heat shield on the Catalytic converter has rusted off some of the heat shields mounts go underneath the truck and see if you can wiggle the heat shield, if it does thats your problem, This if it's a tinny sounding rattle. If it is a different sound please describe as best you can a deep rattle in the front or rear because anything could rattle like a fender or transmission converter cover. Hope this helps and give me some more information so I can help.
SOURCE: when making a left turn,
OK, you're looking at a CV Joint or Halfshaft that connects to the wheel in question.
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I am also getting code 35 from the computer the rattle is audible in park and sounds like it's coming from the cat
actually with the motor off I can here the same tinny rattle when I bang on the cat with a rubber mallet sounds like somethin came apart inside the cat,don't ask me why but a year ago I was having problems passing smog so instead of buying a new cat a friend of mine had one laying around so I reluctantly decided to use it but the problem is the cat had smaller inlets and outlets so I had to make some modifications to adapt it to my 3" exhaust in doing so I have created quite a bit of back pressure it did pass smog with flying colors my truck has 233,000 miles on motor and the valve guide seals are bad the thing smokes like a chimney after sitting for a while.A friend told me to fix it using ford umbrella seals which is of course my next project and probably will take a look at replacing the timing chain too.The cat is undersized for the truck most definitely and I should have spent the money to have bought the oem replacement instead of cutting corners with the one that is on the truck now,truck has been a major headache from day one had to replace steering box and pitman arm also last year front suspension is hammered,worn out I have 17 " chevy tahoe rims on it with 31"baja TA'S stock lift just wore out the front end badly.
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