Car starts no problem after replacing the coolant temp. sensor. Idle ok and wont die even for a long period. if you drive for 5 to 10 mile it start to run rough and will stop when you stop the car for stop sign.has new computer module new spark plug. new distributor and points new idle control valve, new fuel pump relay, has a year old fuel filter and fuel pump
Could be the egr valve is sticking open. I would try diabling the valve by pulling the vacuum line off the egr valve vacuum port. You can plug the hose with a golf tee or bolt to run the test. Then drive the car on the highway where it would normally act up. If it still acts up, put the vacuum line back on the valve and check for other leaks, such as vacuum leaks--maybe the intake manifold gaskets.
SOURCE: 1992 Mercedes Benz, 190E, 2.6 engine died when idle. Won't start.
check your airfilter. your dirt road is killing it much faster than driving it on pavement
SOURCE: 1993 olds cutlass supreme 3.1 multi port loading up at idle
Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: My 1995 S500 Mercedes Benz is idling very rough.
before you spend any more money on your vehicle run a cylinder compression test. I know it seems unlikley with less than 100,000 miles but 119 engines do like to burn valves. the LH fuel injection system was only used from 93-95. LH is a germen abreviation for hot wire mass airflow. The later systems use a hot film. Your vehicle has electronic fuel injection so why did you have the fuel injecters pressure cleaned. unless you have the cis system which means your car is not a 95. Motor mounts are also a very common failure on that vehicle. In any event rule out the worst case and perform a compression test because it really sucks to spend alot on an engine and find out it needs a valve job. I'm assuming that the check engine light is not on. although wireharness issues are another common issue. these early C.A.N. cars are very difficult to troubleshoot electronically and the information provided by the factory is difficult to follow.
SOURCE: 94 Bravada that stumbles and stalls.. won't start when warm..
Try checking the exhaust flow when someone else is pushing down on the gas petal.The farther the petal gos down,the more exhaust should be coming out. I replaced my catalitic convertor at 44000 miles, it was clogged. I had them install a high flow type.
SOURCE: ford festiva just dies while going down the road
i had many problems with what i thought was my starter/ignition and replaced my alternator and battery. tho they were helpful, ultimately the problem was a small fusible link that had needed to be replaced, as it was over heating and when it would it would stop whatever electrical signal was imperitive to the car actually running. if i was driving and the wire over heated, it would stop running right on the road. i just used some 12 AWG stranded wire and it stopped stalling.i discovered it by accident when i touched the wire and noticed it was excessively hot and worn down. it was located in the upper right hand corner under the hood, where there are 3 wires, brown and black.
Engine stalls or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
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