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The tapping is the valves hitting against the buyer upper part of engine. The stalling is most likely the computer shutting down engine. You might have engine damage. The tapping comes and goes according to engine rpm the higher the rpm the louder the tapping. If I was have it towed to u mechanic and have them run test engine might be beyond repair
Its possible the oil pump is going bad, but I doubt it would make the noise you describe. Usually a tapping noise is a valve lifter or a piston connecting rod. And low oil pressure could cause either, as well as dirt blocking one of the oil passages in the engine block.
The clicking is generally caused by a flat roller bearing. If the sound seems to be from the fan clutch you can grab the fan blades and see if the bearing is worn by rocking the blade by pulling it towards you and rockng it away from you Another way to see if its bad is to use a solid pole something like a broom handle. Place one end of the handle on the accessory that runs off the serpentine belt such as the alternator and place your ear on the other end of the handle. As the engine runs you can hear a bearing making noise revolving as it move. If a bearing is bad the noise will be much louder and have a heavy grinding noise
yes hydrailic and no will not affect engine. Engine problem is just more noticed when transmission not engaged.
Squealing is probably pilot bearing--not a big deal.
Tapping--maybe lifters pumping up
Engine light--get car scanned and report trouble codes back to us.
Autozone and Advance, among other parts stores, offer free scans.
If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..
That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.
The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).
There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.
A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).
2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.
If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).
If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.
A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.
Most likely cause is a hydralic tappet. Mits are well know for top end noise. Note we are talking about a tapping or clicking sound not a knock. You can try using an engine flush product if the noise is getting bad and then changing your oil. Generally if the oil is not changed regularily eventually the tapping noise gets happens.
We have the same tapping sound on our 2003 Envoy six cylinder engine. I believe the sound is coming from the radiator fan clutch assembly. When the engine reaches its operating temperature and the fan clutch engages, the tapping sound goes away.