Replacing ball joints on 1996 GMC sonoma 4x4

The OEM ball joint is riveted into the upper control arm. There are two possible ways to replace the joint. You can purchase the entire upper control arm/ball joint assembly, which comes complete with the upper control arm bushings. This part costs about $150.00. You will also have to deal with the coil spring when replacing it this way. You can also buy just the ball joint for about $30.00. This will require that you drill out the rivets of the original ball joint and then bolt in the replacement with the bolts that are provided with it. The 2WD and 4WD versions are the same. See this link.


http://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/ball-joint-upper/gmc/sonoma-4wd/1994/6-cylinders-z-4-3l-tbi

I am not a mind reader, you need to give more info about the car

Hi, the ball joint is connected to the steering knuckle with a tapered connection, called a steering taper, which is also used in other steering connections.
To remove a ball joint requires the use of a ball joint remover.
Another way of "breaking" the taper is to use a large hammer.
First, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut several turns.
Position the vehicle so that the coil spring is pushing on the ball joint. This could require lifting the vehicle or allowing its weight to rest on the wheels.
Use a hammer to pound sharply on the steering knuckle on the outside of the taper. This will deform the taper and spring pressure will separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.

Removing the Ball Joint from the Control Arm
A ball joint can be retained by one of several methods.
Some ball joints are held in with rivets from the factory. The rivets are drilled and punched to remove them. Bolts and nuts are used to hold the replacement joint in place.
The most common method is press fit. Some manufacturers require you to replace the entire control arm assembly if a ball joint is to be replaced. In these cases, the ball joint and control arm are made as a single assembly and individual parts are not available.
If the control arm has been removed from the vehicle, a pressed-fit ball joint can be removed using a standard hydraulic press. When the control arm is still on the car, a special press set allows the removal and replacement of these ball joints. Some pressed-fit ball joints have a spot weld that holds them in place. This must be carefully removed. When a replacement ball joint is installed, a snap ring often takes the place of the weld.

NOTE
Be sure the grease release hole in the new ball joint's rubber boot is aimed away from the brakes.

Easiest way to remove the rivets if you don't have an air chisel is to drill through them and then finish off using a hand chisel. The new ones will come with bolts...don't use a drill larger than the bolts.

UPPER BALL JOINTS

1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.

1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:
   
   1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
   
3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:
   
   1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
   
4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

LOWER BALL JOINTS

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series

1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.

1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

Changing the actual ball joints themselves is pretty easy (the replacements just bolt in), however disassembling everything else is very involved, especially if you have a 4x4. Some of the original equipment ball joints are riveted in, so you may need to drill out the rivets to remove the old ball joints. Some models have ball joints that are pressed in. (Your model should not be pressed in. They are either riveted or bolted if they have been replaced already) This is not a job I would recommend to someone who does not know how to do it. You need to disassemble/take tension off the suspension, disassemble the steering knuckles, etc. There are specialized tools you will need as well such as a pickle fork for breaking the knuckle away from the ball joint/A arm, spring compressor or torsion bar removal tool (depending on what your vehicle is equipped with), torque wrench, etc.

If you are set on tackling it anway, do yourself a favor and go to your local auto parts store and pick up a repair manual for your Blazer. It will have the procedure to step you through it, torque specs, and tool part numbers listed in it.

Depends on the car. Need more info, but you will have to take come precautions. Some ball joints have to be cut or pressed off, some have rivets that have to be drilled out, some are under the pressure of the suspension springs and have to be relived in order to remove safely. But can be done in the driveway with out too much trouble.

your going to have to remove the wheel and tire. all brake componets, remove the steering knuckle, this will give you acces to the lower ball joint if this is a rivited on joint drill the rivets out, if it is pressed in unit take a hammer and pound on the top of the joint and it will come out, to install you will need a ball joint press, if its riveted the new joint will come with bolts to replace the factory rivets.

there's no torque setting that you go by because there aftermarket!

the factory ones are riveted in so you won't find it any where.

but when i do them and do them . witch is alot. i go by the feel of my air gun. if you are using just hand tools then i would use a 3/8 ratchet and tighten it as much as you can with that set-up , then get a 1/2 set-up and turn another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

if you need a number for a torque spec then depending on the grade bolt that came with the replacement ball joint. a 10mm bolt thats a 8.8 grade will only do 33 ft. lbs. before it will strech and then break. so no more than that! 8.8 is the most common for automotive grade hardware...

good luck man

inspect ball joints and tie rod ends