Question about 1992 Lincoln Mark VII

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Rear brake problems in 1990 lincoln mark 7

I have front brakes, but no fluid to the rear brakes

Posted by kaciehope19 on

  • 4 more comments 
  • kaciehope19 Jan 27, 2009

    i already tried bleeding the brakes. The front brakes work fine, but i cant get fluid to the rear brakes. The rear callipers are brand new, I just replaced them. I thought that would have been the problem

  • kaciehope19 Jan 27, 2009

    if the rubbers are swollen when I disconnect the rubber brake line from each calliper where it connects with the metal line and pump the brakes, shouldn't the fluid come out there?

  • kaciehope19 Jan 28, 2009

    i disconnected the rear rubber lines to calipers from the steele brake lines. there is still no fluid.

    should i disconnect rear brake line at master cylinder? By do

    By doing this, will air be drawn into the hcu?

  • kaciehope19 Jan 29, 2009

    I opened the rear brake line at the master cyl and no fluid or pressure.

    front brakes work fine and no amber or red brake lights on except at start of vehicle and then they go out.

    accumulator charged or not, still no fluid or pressure.

    No leaks in any lines, but no fluid in rear brake lines and cant get any even with vaccum pump bleeder kit.

  • kaciehope19 Jan 29, 2009

    I have an HCU master cyl integral type. It is a 4 wheel ABS system and has the control module in trunk for the ABS.

    The book tells me not to bleed this type of master cyl and that it must be bled in a shop.

    There has been no leaks and resevoir has maintained max level.

    The question is, is it the HCU unit itself, or just needs to be bled?

  • kaciehope19 Jan 29, 2009

    the abs light is not and was not on, except at the start of vehicle.

    i can't adjust the ebrake, have tried working the e-brake levers on the back of the calipers, but they won't push the out.

    Wouldn't I need fluid in them in order to adjust them?

    Or should they just ratchet out by working the e-brake levers?(new calipers installed)



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Proper way to Bleed the brakes is as follows.

Jack up the car.remove the rear tires first. loosen the bleeder and attach a rubber tube and put that in a milk jug. You start with the drivers side rear. Get in the car and just hold the brake peddle 1/2 way down. When you see clear fluid (did I mention you will need several bottles of fluid) If you have a friend helping you, have them keep the resovour full. when the fluid is clear , do the other side the same way. The front calipers you need to pump like regular calipers.

If you need more info, try the forum at
Under brakes you find a wealth of knowledge.

Posted on Mar 22, 2010



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HAHA, funny. when you bleed the brakes on a lincoln mark, you have to have the key turned to the on position for the rear brake bleed or nothing will come out no matter what you do. you can leave the bleeders open for a decade and nothing will come out. Turn the key to on, but do NOT start the car, then proceed with the bleeding as you would the front.

Posted on May 10, 2009


robert kious

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My first guess at that would be you have a air bubble it the master cylinder. have you left something out like a repair you just performed or something ?

sound like air anyhow or a bad master cylinder.

what to try is this fill up the brake reservoir and open both rear bleeders

walk away for a few hours or put a pan to catch fluid and go to bed

this should start a gravity bleed on the brakes brake, fluid level should be lower in the morning if not empty lol.

have someone pump the brakes hold the pedal down on the last pump and while they hold the pedal down crack the bleeder, ( he must keep pedal on the floor till you tighten the bleeder back up

then he can let up on the pedal and y'all do this again and again till while he hold the pedal down and you open the bleeder, you have no momre air coming out. good luck

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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  • robert kious Jan 27, 2009

    ok i know what your problem is

    i have seen this on front caliper lines

    if you have rubber lines that jump the steel brakee fluid line to your cylinder/ it may be swollen closed

    then you would replace the line

    but first lets isolate the problem go to your master cylinder and lossen the line that feeds the rear.

    rule of thumb the front brake res operates the the rear (may not be in this case) and the rear portion of master cyler operates the front pads.

    crack a line one at a time and have someone push on the brake does it come out ?

    on both lines ?

    if yes then you have a restrition in your hydralic lines ( hence swollen rubber) or crushed line

    let me know good luck

  • robert kious Jan 28, 2009

    if you where to remove the rubber line all the way lets say.

    does fluid come out ?

    if you open the line before the rubber line yes fluid should come out. if it does then its the rubber line.

    if it does not then it is somthing else

    simple the master cylinder check fluid comes out ?

    if so jump to rear of system check before those rubber lines

  • robert kious Jan 29, 2009

    yes, do crack (not remove) that fitting at the master cyl.

  • robert kious Jan 29, 2009

    OK now you have gone this far. there are only two possible causes at this point. if you cracked rear line at master cylinder and got no air or fluid. that means either you have air in your master cylinder.

    which can happen if you have a fluid leak and the fluid drains out (gravity bleed) and you then step on the brake and release and when you release it sucks air. if that's the case then you need to remove the master cyl and bench bleed it. (unless your good enough and have a helper you can bleed it in the car). and this is how you bench bleed a master cyl. you have to hook up clear lines to the master cylinder outlets you take the clear tubes and direct them back into the master cylinder reservoir. then very slowly ( i do mean very slow) slower then snail snot. press the brake pedal or the master cylinder plunger in ( if bench bleeding lock into vice) . now as you push very slow you will c little air bubbles in the clear line. here is the fun part. a bubble game. you have to work all the little air bubbles out. but you will find that they push out slow but **** back in very fast. hence the slow push on the rod. and when you c a air bubble STOP and let it float to the top of clear line then try to push it out. slow of course. repeat all this until no more bubbles. i am sure your local parts store can help you out.

    now if none of that is the case then you need a master cyl. as its internal seal are no longer working properly

  • robert kious Jan 29, 2009

    hcu are you saying that you have abs with a hcu hydraulic control unit ? friend, if you have cracked the line for the rear brakes at the master cylinder and fluid dripped. and you have a abs module, and there has been no breach in the brake fluid system. is your abs light on ?

    i have only one last suggestion for you, is that if the abs unit valve for the rear brakes is stuck open and just vents the fluid. as if the abs was actuating.

    last ditch effort is this, if the valve is stuck open and there is no abs light.

    drive down the road gravel would be best. and rip or stop the &%k out of the e-brake and cause a rear wheel lock-up going no faster then 20 KO. this should activate your rear abs , and hence perhaps

    just maybe that valve will jar itself loose.

  • robert kious Jan 30, 2009

    you need a master cylinder. if you cracked it at the master cylinder and nothing happened.

    then try to just leave it cracked see if you can get it to gravity bleed.

    don't WOORY bout the abs unit. i have bleed many a brakes and went right past the ecu, and yes even cracking lines

    if the gravity bleed do,'t work try a little pressure compressed or or mouth to mouth :)

    i think you may need to replace the master cylinder, that's what it all points to. sorry


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