There should have been a clip to secure the bearing on the fork shaft. Was it secure??
Clutch may not engage if clutch master cylinder or clutch slave have not been properly bled. There is no adjustment on hydraulic systems. Bleed again if necessary.
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SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: Clutch release bearing removal
You have the transmission out and are trying to remove it from the slave cylinder right? Just pull straight out. It should pop free. It just has plastic tabs that hold it on.
SOURCE: I have a 90' Isuzu pickup 4x4. The clutch pedal
you have either air in the line or a bad slave cylinder
SOURCE: My release fork shaft on my MItsubishi pickup Has
i had a throwout that was just a bit bigger than the oem one and that caused me the same problem,its something else to check too
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_2c7bb9c157d0baa8
SOURCE: My 1994 ford rangers clutch pedal just lost all pedal
There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.
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