Is this anythink to do with the cold weather,it had a nes fuel filter this summer ?
The problem is the SCV valve, that regulates the fuel pressure at the injection pump. The problem is solved when we replace that valve.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2028/valvulacaudaldensojk2.jpg
In that link you have the picture of the valve and its part number.
i have the same problem as everyone else on here by the looks of it... it's still unfixed but a local mechanic heard the symptoms and pointed straight at the SCV.
Couldn't get a reply from TT in Loughborough, but I have found a replacement SCV here: <http://www.dieseljones.co.uk/common-rail...
Hope this is helpful to others on here and other Mazda 6 forums.
Neill (posted July 2 2012)
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I also run a Oct '03 Mazda 6 TS turbo which developed the same stalling problem (as described by peterandle etc..) at 64000 miles over the Xmas holiday 2009 - also cold weather etc.
The solution fitted all the variables, (engine restarts and runs OK, not electrics, not water in the filter etc) so I took the advice of Bznaides and bought the SCV valve from TT of Loughborough (01509 633300 - very helpful - they stock and sell several, so be careful to specify the correct engine type).
Advice from local Mazda dealer was also rubbish - they advised to replace the fuel pump, despite the spare valve being from fuel pump manufacturer Denso and labelled as a service repair item!
Local independent garage fitted item (at my risk) and problem is fixed. Engine also drives better as throttle transitions are smoother, and irritating engine-bay rattle at around 2000rpm which has been there from new has now gone. (Are these two issues related??)
Maybe Mazda should take note as the difference in cost is considerable (£120ish plus fitment plays a new or recon fuel pump) - but I doubt it will register with them. Shame as otherwise I find the Mazda 6TS is an excellent vehicle which delivers good value and performance.
David Cowcill, Peterborough UK
Just sorted mine. It had been stalling at junctions on and off for periods over the last 3 years. Very annoying! Bought the SCV on ebay. Agree with all the above comments. I was recommended by Colingdale Mazda in North London to go with the 2k injector pump replacement. Bought the SCV from ebay, then watched this video. youtube video. Done 125 pounds and about an hour later. Thanks the internet, thank google, and thank you all (except for Mazda's attitude on this).
You-Tube video "Q3k3pS2vyxQ" placeholder (do not deletMazda 6 2.0 136bhp diesel stalls all the time on t - utube.pngb>
Just thought I would share the tale of my Mazda 6
Went to work on Friday night, car down on power and cutting out every time the revs dropped. (Had been an intermittant problem until this point and mainly when cold but always re-started easily)
Got to work (just). Next morning came out and car just would not start. Turned over fine but nothing.
Called the RAC who plugged in and got no fault codes. He did pin it down to no fuel pressure when cranking. (Started ok with easy start).
Rang TT automotive first thing yesterday and ordered SCV to be delivered by RM Special Delivery (£150 inc VAT and Del).
Fitted with no probs except having to re-seat the seal once and car now working fine.
Thanks for this thread as it helped fix problem quickly and thanks to TT automotive as £150 a lot cheaper than expected (Had been £200+)
Shame on you Mazda as yet another 6 is fixed without you admitting this common fault (at a fraction of what you charge)
I had the same problem with my Mazda and it was displaying an EGR valve fault on diagnostic . My mechanic said possible contamined fuel and referred me to a diesel specialist who told me the same and said he could recondition the injectors. £900 later, got the car back and it run worse than before. Took my car to another diesel who told me it was a SCV (Suction Control Valve) that regulates the pressure to the fuel pump. Had it replaced at £377 and the car runs beautiful again. Just a thought to check ....good luck. Nikki
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Have just replaced the scv on mine and runs better than ever, thanks to all you guys who posted the info and pics to identify the part and exactly where its located, a job you can quite easily do yourself with limited mechanical knowledge, also thanks to tt autos for the swift service in supplying the correct part, thank god for the internet!!!!!!!!
Hi i kinow this is an old thread, but so glad i came across it we have a Mazda 6 which has all the problems listed above we had done the air filters hoover hoses everything but no solution, i read all of above phoned TT automotive all i mentioned was SCV and the fella straight away knew we had a Mazda 6 due to the amount of people currently experiencing the same problem, we had ours fitted today all seems ok keeping fingers crossed the problem has been resolved :)
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Thank you for the advice. My Mazda 6 had the stalling problem and Mazda didn;t want to know about. So after reading your comments I found a deisel specialist (TT Automotive - Loughborough) they new all about it and replaced the Suction Control Valve and now the car runs better than ever. Thanks!!
Hi everyone. I had the same problem with my 2004 Mazda 6 diesel. Stalling when idling, worse in cold weather. Also I noticed in cold weather it would idle around 750 revs per minute-before this problem it would always rev at just under 1000 revs per minute.
Took it to a local independent garage, they did full service and also said no problem with the diagnostics. Problem remained for another year. Phoned local Mazda garage- they said they would suggest replacing the diesel pump, I asked how much, they said 1800 plus VAT plus labour! More than the car is now worth. So I phoned a local diesel engine company (Kent Diesel) and they laughed at the quote from the Mazda garage, they said a new diesel pump would be around 400. So the Mazda garage wanted to make over 1000 profit out of me on the part alone.
Anyway, Kent Diesel said the problem is probably the Suction Control Valve- as everyone else on this forum seems to say. Apparently they are all going. They were really helpful.
So I ordered the genuine part on eBay using the link above for 125, it arrived in post the next day, and fitted it myself using a size 5 Allen key for the two bolts (attached to a pair of pliers for the first and last bit). It only took 15 minutes and I am no expert.
Result... amazing! First thing you notice is how the Mazda now idles at a proper rev when cold- back to just under 1000 revs per minute now. Instant result. And no more stalling when idling a cold engine.
Tips for anyone else- just do it- the part is relatively cheap. If fitting it yourself, the two bolts need a tiny bit of force to loosen them at the start, then easy. Follow the video in the post above. Main risk is that the rear bolt is fiddly and if you have fat fingers like me you might drop it. Then you are stuffed, so when fitting the new bolts which come with the new part, do not throw out the old bolts until you are done! Or put a tiny bit of blue-tac on the tip of the Allen key to stick the bolt to it.
If you are not used to using simple tools, then order the part from the eBay site and take it to a local independent garage asking them to fit it for you. It should only take 10-15 minutes. Or phone up a local diesel servicing centre (I asked Kent Diesel who were very helpful) and ask them to do the whole thing for you. I felt a bit guilty that Kent Diesel were so helpful on the phone and I gave them no business in the end. Certainly if the fuel pump needs replacing in the future I would ask them to do it, but the Suction Control Valve is so easy that really anyone who has used basic tools could do it- watch the video above first though.
Hum, I removed the valve to have a look about and see what could be amiss.
I removed the two clips to the alternator to make room, removed the valve and then refitted, I checked that the clips were all back on, went to fire the engine, nothng, zip, nada.
I've got voltage across the battery, interior lights, radio, demister/heater all working, but no ignition.
Just a click (sounds like a relay?) from the nearside turrewt area (fuse box maybe?)
what could I have done? and more importantly, what's needed to get it firing up?
As an aside, I reckon its an easy swap on the suction valve, especially with the part no listed above
Exactly the same with me. What is the fix?
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I had the same problem and it was indeed the suction control valve for the fuel pump that was causing the problem. There are a bunch of these spares "on a certain auction site" item number: 150413555792. They are really easy to fit.
Thank you guys for solve the problem, I had problems with my scv valve too and I found this seller in ebay, I bought the valve (cheaper than in other sellers) and my car works perfectly again.
http://cgi.ebay.es/VALVULA-SCV-DENSO-294009-0120-MAZDA-6-/230629900163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item35b29cff83
I thought I have the same problem, replaced scv and then engine starts perfectly but was very noisy. The result is that the fuel pressure is much too high at idle. can you help me?\
Hello guys! Could you help me with this?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wv1L89fj...
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Had the same problem with my Mazda 6 diesel 05 plate. Stalling when at junctions or traffic lights
or whenever at idle, starts back straight away. No problem when moving or accelerating.
Had the problem for the last three months spent
Hi, I had the same problem, and I was very re-assured when I saw this thread. Ordered the part from TT Automotive and delivered next day RM special delivery £166. Fitted it myself, took about 45 mins I guess as the rear bolt is quite fiddly to get to and I needed to reseat the seal once aswell. A tip here, fit the seal first into the housing which you then screw the SCV into. A ratchet socket set with alan key bits was very useful aswell. Anyway, it starts no problem now, no problem at idle. I'm very happy. Thanks guys for this thread
Hi, Thanks for the thread - nice to understand a possible reason for my Mazda problems also. I have been advised after fitting the SCV, the car will need to go through a 'learning procedure', for this, you need laptop/software etc. Has anyone else had this after replacing the SCV? Thanks
Hi warr_mazda,
This isn't true, I replaced mine myself and didn't need anything to go through a learning procedure, I suspect this is dodgy scare tactics by unscrupulous garages. You're not doing anything other than replacing a faulty part, same as a new exhaust. Mine is still running like a dream.
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Hello guys! Could you help me with this?
SOURCE: Where is the fuel filter on my 1999 mazda 626
well i had that in my mazda 626 and it could be fuel filter or you need to get new spark plugs
SOURCE: mazda 6 diesel wont start
Have you run the car without fuel? There must not be any air in the fuel line... Blead the fuel line of air and try to start it. There should be bleader screws under the hood....
SOURCE: how to fix and clean the mazda 5 diesel
You can clear these if less than 60% blocked by giving the car a good blast on the motorway going through the revs. If your car is on limp mode you do need to replace the particulate filter as the blockage is too much to regenerate. I have found a company that does these very cheap and are technicly brilliant i had many questions and they seemed to answer correctly with confidence. They supplied the part to me for £500, i have checked from this for the automotive solutions guys that did it for £450 but couldnt find them which is why i went with these. The company is Onlineautomotive.co.uk and i spoke to someone Called Darrell. There number is anyone wants it is 0844 880 4149 he did giv me a direct number but im sure he wouldnt want me to list that on here as its his work mobile.
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I have a similar poblem. Seems to be worse when the air is cold and damp but still happens when warm , just not as often. Car will run fine while motoring but when I slow and stop for a junction the car will often stall, but will start again straight away.
hi - mt maxad 6 has develpped a similair problem - is this valve easy to fit/source and how much does it cost? Thanks
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